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Getting started with a cabinet


PharkieB
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I got a big box of goodies from slotsmagic and wondering where to start.

 

I understand these parts were stripped out of a "Vegas Slots" cabinet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30q7q2yoPnA.

I don't have a big cabinet at the moment. Thinking to learn how all the bits work before I get into that.

I have some light-up Bell Fruit buttons on their way from eBay (see attached).

I'm thinking to make a box for the buttons as a "desktop" interface, connected to the iPac 2 (for input) and Pacdrive (for output of lights). Does anyone have experience, tips or designs for that?

I saw similar devices on YouTube without details of the build. I was thinking to head to the local workshop and see if I can assemble something from the scrap pieces of wood. I just need a box, then drill holes to screw the buttons through, then wire them to the iPac2 and Pacdrive, then I'll have USB cables to plug into a PC. Is that right? I don't actually have a Windows PC yet, but MFME runs fine under Parallels Windows emulation.

Then there's the SR5 coin validator the Azkoyen Parallel hopper. How do those connect to MFME, in simple terms?

Where could I find a technical manual for the hopper? I saw someone control a hopper with an Arduino board and that kind of project would be great if I could get it to pay out £x.

Any tips or advice on how to start appreciated!

Screenshot 2024-08-10 at 11.26.45.png

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Glad it all arrived safely! The kit you've got is somewhat overkill for what sounds like an MFME keyboard project, but at least having the correct PACdrive for driving hoppers and whatnot means that when you feel like implementing coins in and out, you are all set. If you need more buttons or anything let me know, I've got boxes of them somewhere and they won't be of any use to me going forward!

Reg (previous forum owner / admin) did a set of instructions here for an MFME keyboard, which would be a good place to start, as it'll show you how the wiring and whatnot are handled. You should have everything you need - the LEDs I've included are 5V white, I think you should have 10 in total so that'll be a start. 5V LEDs can be driven directly from the PACdrive using the power provided over USB. If you go for 12V lamps you need to take more precautions, so don't do that without research :)

As for driving the hopper and stuff - if you are planning on just using MFME to handle coins in and coins out, there is no need for a separate Arduino or anything like that. MFME handles coins in and out via the PACdrive board you now have - all you need to do is provide the hopper with an external 12V power supply. If you are building around a desktop PC, which is what I did, you just use a 12V line from the computer's power supply (hence the fake WAGO connectors you'll find on the loom), and then you have a single PSU to power the PC, hopper, coin mech, buttons and everything. No need for multiple PSUs, relays, or any of that (assuming you stick to a single 12V hopper as I did!).

The only other PSUs I used were for the speaker amplifier (the little power plug for that is in one of the jiffy bags with a loom in it), and the monitors. Everything else was powered from the PC PSU, which was only a 250W bronze rated small form factor unit - so it's not like you need some ridiculous power supply :)

There will be more examples of things like MFME Keyboards - such as this one : 
https://www.desertislandfruits.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11737-humble-beginnings-my-mfme-keyboard-a-work-in-progress/  in this subforum, so you are in the right place :)

Again, you already have a loom made up for 7 (I think) buttons, and there's some extra wiring and things included, so hopefully you'll be able to see what I've done and cross-reference with some of the threads mentioned to see how it all works :)

I'll help as much as I can - although I do wish I'd written a manual as I went along :)

Edited by slotsmagic

Happy non-gambler since 1st January 2025!
(if anyone else needs or wants to quit, I recommend Allen Carr's 'Easyway to Stop Gambling'.

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Can anyone explain how the lamp and button work, on these?

Would it be possible to get the button to light up, by providing the right power to the correct terminals? What voltage do they need, and is it the same for the lamp and the button?

Which terminals indicate the switch is "on"?

The bottom prong indicates "COM" and the long one in the same direction out of the back says "ON", I think. Then there are the two metal prongs off the sides, which I think would be for the lamp?

Thanks!

IMG_6590 Large.jpeg

IMG_6591 Large.jpeg

IMG_6592 Large.jpeg

Edited by PharkieB
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If you are using the 5V 10mm LEDs as I provided, then the PACdrive itself provides 5V and you don't need to worry about external power sources, relays or any of that stuff. If using the buttons you have above, I'd suggest getting some 5V LEDs unless you really want to run 12V and power them externally.

Connect the lamp holder as per the picture below as provided by the manufacturer of the PACdrive - power is provided in a 'daisy chain' configuration to the positive terminal of each LED, and then a separate wire from each negative terminal back out the PACdrive, preferably in the order they are installed in the cabinet / MFME keyboard - whichever option you go with :)

 

 

Edited by slotsmagic

Happy non-gambler since 1st January 2025!
(if anyone else needs or wants to quit, I recommend Allen Carr's 'Easyway to Stop Gambling'.

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Thanks slotsmagic. Just keen to understand every component properly as I go through this. I may end up using these buttons for a "quiz round" on a gaming table, for instance. I'm keen to get things working individually without just powering up the iPac/Pacdrive, including how to control them, how they work.

Ah, so these are 12 v bulbs, provided. I see the 5v LED versions you provided look exactly the same, so that's a direct swap out. Great!

Missing image but I can try to find.

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2 minutes ago, PharkieB said:

Thanks slotsmagic. Just keen to understand every component properly as I go through this. I may end up using these buttons for a "quiz round" on a gaming table, for instance. I'm keen to get things working individually without just powering up the iPac/Pacdrive, including how to control them, how they work.

Ah, so these are 12 v bulbs, provided. I see the 5v LED versions you provided look exactly the same, so that's a direct swap out. Great!

Missing image but I can try to find.

Sorry, image attached!!

I assume they are, normal fruit machine lamps are 12V 1.2W from memory :)

You can use them but you'd need an external power source, I prefer to just stick to LEDs :)

I may have more kicking about but I just included the 3 spares from my last order :)

pacdrive_leds.jpg

Happy non-gambler since 1st January 2025!
(if anyone else needs or wants to quit, I recommend Allen Carr's 'Easyway to Stop Gambling'.

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The same principle applies to the microswitches, albeit this time using the iPAC (which handles INputs) instead of the PACdrive (which handles OUTputs).

With the microswitches for the buttons, you'll have a daisy-chained 'ground' for each microswitch - probably labelled COM or similar on the switch. That goes to the GND connector on the iPAC.

Then for the button itself, normally the part of the microswitch labeled NO (Normally Open), you connect a wire from each NO terminal on the switch back to a separate input on the iPAC.

Again, feel free to play about with the ready made up loom I provided as it's got lamps and microswitches already wired up, along with annotated cable notes, so should be able to give you clues :)

 

(edit - corrected text as I'd originally referred to inputs twice in the first paragraph instead of inputs and outputs)

Edited by slotsmagic

Happy non-gambler since 1st January 2025!
(if anyone else needs or wants to quit, I recommend Allen Carr's 'Easyway to Stop Gambling'.

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11 minutes ago, PharkieB said:

hah, made a "select starting player" mini feature for my possible future gaming table.

What do you think?

Thanks for your help, invaluable to get this working so far, and using those 5v bulbs.

Player_select adobe.gif

Looks nice, assume it's using an Arduino or similar?

I do have random 'tinkering' Raspberry Pis of various generations, and also a Flipper Zero, but really just as a curiosity, never actually done any programming with them. I just use them for ready made emulation, or in the case of the Flipper, as a backup for getting into work via the RFID panel on the door :D

My only experience is with iPAC (alternative keyboard encoders are available) and PACdrive, using software already written like MFME that is designed to work with such hardware.

Anything I learned I did by asking questions in this subforum, but also by looking at what others had done - it may take a bit of digging but there's plenty of stuff.

As I continue clearing out the garage tomorrow (might be firing up the air conditioner and tucking the exhaust vent under one of the doors!) I may well come across more microswitches and things if needed, also (bit random) possibly things like 7seg displays from machines - not sure if you'd be interested in anything like that to tinker with? I guess it depends on whether they would be of use. 

Also not sure I provided some of the basic cables too (things like 3.5mm to dual RCA for the amplifier?), so happy to send them on at the same time, free of charge obviously.

Anyway good to see you are enjoying what you are doing! 

Edited by slotsmagic

Happy non-gambler since 1st January 2025!
(if anyone else needs or wants to quit, I recommend Allen Carr's 'Easyway to Stop Gambling'.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm trying to cut out my panel today out of plywood. A "29 mm" hole saw (1 1/8") seems to work OK for the hole. But then the back of the button also has a small round notch positioned toward the bottom.

Any tips on how to make that fit?

At the moment the button won't sit flush with the panel surface because that notch is pushing it out on top..

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43 minutes ago, PharkieB said:

Ah, OK! I assume in the cabinets that notch has a matching hole and it keys the button into position.

Thanks for your help, the project continues.

Thanks also for the extra box of parts, @slotsmagic.

Absolutely, keeps all the buttons nicely lined up with only a hint of 'wiggle'. In most cases, those of us who make cabinets just use the plastic nut on the button thread to grip into the button panel.

Found a few extra 7 segs so added them to the box. No idea if any of it is any use but if not feel free to either lob it or pass it on. They would have been working when removed though :)

Happy non-gambler since 1st January 2025!
(if anyone else needs or wants to quit, I recommend Allen Carr's 'Easyway to Stop Gambling'.

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