Reg

For any pinball fans, my christmas present to myself from a seller on eBay. I've done a brief video ( my longest yet ). The intro I do think is worth listening to as it sets the scene for how and why. I've asked the seller to join these forums - if he does, you'll be able to ask questions direct. This video really does not do this machine justice.

WARNING ANOTHER LONG POST ! Just a note why so long here, I need to have a point of reference so that: 1. Others can follow what I have done and learn from my mistakes. 2. I can see where I got to last and know where to pick up. Chances are, due to real life meaning I can't do as much as I want, I wont' be able to get to this until next week as I have an important thing arriving tomrrow, my christmas present to myself. MACHINE 1 - 0 REG Today I lost - I spent far too much time on this and have no time tomorrow which is really a ball ache as I wanted to get this done. There was one job to do, this was setup the coin mech. During cabinet one, the PacDrive needed a common ground, so repeating the process from the first machine this was done. BEFORE AFTER Basically the tracks cut rear of the ground connected to the mount point of the USB connector. Buzzed out and tested, working fine. The next stage start to wire up the coin mech. Previously I had a Cashflow 126 which was mounted on the left hand side of the cabinet, this machine has a SR5 on the right hand side of the cabinet. The previous wirings were this... ...the conversion from the Cashflow to the SR5 looked like this... The confirmed notes was basically me checking my work. Then the first problem hit. The SR5 parallel interface is against the side of the cabinet, there is NO ACCESS to this ! I have to make my own cables that hopefully will work. Below is the test cable I made and then a view of it attached to the SR5 which is in place. This is going to need to be done for every cable of which there are 21 ( well 20 if you ignore the guide block ). This is what the end result looked like. The power comes from the Molex connector in the PC and goes to terminal points 11 and 12 ( hidden on the above photo as behind the 13 - 17 block ). Once connected the next task was to turn on the red base unit shown on a previous post to check power - this was the most important part. It worked ! The little green light shows power to the mech. The next job was to take the Inhibit 1 - 8 connections from the parallel interface and send them to the PacDrive. A loom needed to be made for this. This was the PacDrive from earlier. I wanted to save another wire on the IPAC controller. This time I was using a smaller one compared to what I've used in the past so jumpered the ground from bank A to B. It buzzed out ok. This is where the coin inputs will be sent from the coin mech when coins are put through. 2SW1 - 2SW8 needed configuring which was done using the software mentioned previously. This looked a sensible way to do it, match the Acceptance from the mech to the relevand 2SW switch and the button configurations shown. These are what I expect to be shown when coins drop through. The next stage was to put it all in the case, I was using one of these USB adapters to run the IPAC and the PacDrive to the PC. Everything was not back in the case and ready for testing... ...and it didn't work. CONCLUSION There is something I am missing, some difference between the Cashflow and the SR5. Everything was done excatly as it was in the past. The IPAC does work. You can hold a wire on the ground and 2SW1 - 2SW8 and it sends the keyboard output to the PC. Everything is on a common ground and shared from the SR5, to the PacDrive and the IPAC. There is power to the coin mech that was previously running CCTalk. NEXT STEPS Whenever I get a chacne to get back to this, I need to look again. Is there something that I need to do with the SR5, just don't know at the moment. Is the simple step to go to a Cashflow - well that is yes a solution but one that I don't want to do - part of the challenge and the journey is getting this right. TODAY THE MACHINE WON - NEXT TIME I HOPE TO...

Getting near the end now and good progress has been made dispite my bad back. Had already decided that the PC red box was going to be used for a majority of the funtionality as it had so much that was already needed was in that box. This mean that I needed to put the base PC elsewhere, behind the monitor was as a good place as any. The original unit used the kettle lead connector - I needed more power. The below adaptor world fine which allowed me to put a 4-way adapter against the back of the upper part of the machine. The next job was the buttons - they were dumb at present although I knew what I wanted to do with them. The only one that would work the machine would be the button seven for start, there is also a secret combination to add credits ( beyond pushing the credit button on the DX ). This is my IPAC wired up - I literally used the cables from the loom that had been buzzed out already once I found the already tinned connectors released very easy from the plastic connector. WinIPAC is used to configure the switches, for more compicated funtions it also supports macros. In this case, I want it to exit the GUI back to the desktop when I press and hold button one and button seven, it supports this fine. The below picture is the red shell put back into the base. The blue cable wrap houses the audio lead and the usb lead for the the IPAC to the PC above. The red connector is the resused presentation for the keyboard switches. The white connectors ( although only eight wires are used, are the LED power. That look could be seriously cut and thinned, but it's harming nobody and can stay. Up top is nothing to see but a small PC, I am waiting to put the hoppers in and the coin mech and have them live. The machine when closed and powered on looks like the below, it automatically boots into the frontend, again I am using mGalaxy as it's on the previous cabinet I built. The below is some mobile phone footage - a little hard to capture and not the best quality as I sat it on a box. The angles also look odd whne playing from behind a chair. One key thing here, note how I exit the games and press the top left hand corner of the screen - that is part of MFME.

Nah you’ll be fine - I don’t have that many skills here - the only things we blow up is our wallets when it goes wrong !

Well did not do as much as planned and also suffering from a knackered back - so I hope the wonders of an iPad, cloud sharing of pictures works. The goal here was to wire up the buttons. This thread is a little picture heavy but a good point of reference. The last two pictures of the previous post show the loom that presents itself into a connector. That connector can plug directly into the front of the PC case also shown above. The goal here is to reuse as many parts as possible - if it’s not broken don’t fix it. Using a multimeter the wires were buzzed out to check that we knew what everything was. The picture below is what was connected to the buttons. The picture below is the wires that were connected into the PayLink device from the above post. These are the critical cables and a loom that already exists. The PC was stripped of everything not needed. This is really going to be a frame / shell of all the parts needed for the rest of the cabinet. It had an amp, it had a PSU, it had connections for the loom and it had a 24v PSU. The cables from the loom plugged directly into the front of the PC via the connectors shown. below. This then linked to the PayLink device that was removed. The one problem you have when using an ATX power supply from the PC is that with no PC, it is always turned off. You need to fix this. The way this is done is you connect two wires as shown. I was fortunate that the PC had an extension block of wires from the PC PSU to the system board, so this is what was cut and linked ( the two wires ). This should ensure the PC PSU turns on when it gets a power source. The next challenge was to convert a molex connector to power the button bulbs, all of them. The plan is to have them all on. Note that it is the yellow and black wires needed. With the adapter for the PSU mod plugged in and the single LED bulb, time to test. The bulb worked. Next it was update the buttons, I wanted the legends removed and silver looking buttons to match the frame. The inserts were removed of the buttons and replaced with silver / grey tissue type wrapping paper. The final part is to power on the LEDs at boot. Remember this picture... The top connector has all the LEDs and the ground. Basically two connections are needed. One ground ( as its common to all buttons and linked ) and then the live to each button. As I am going to have them all on at once, this is now easy. A common connector made as below. The ground wire goes to the black cable and all the live cables for the LEDs go into the red cable. The final view of the PC looks like this. The connector show above with the the single ground wire from the buzzed out cables goes into the black wire as above on the custom connector and the button live cable ( 7 into 1 ) go into the other connector is taped to the base of the case. Finally - when power is presented - the buttons should all come on. This uses existing looms and effectively makes the old wiring recycled. Powering on... Eureka... Next stage if my back is ok is to get the PC setup with a menu and couple of games to test. Aftert that, keyboard controller setup... ...then the coin hopper etc. We are getting here - hope this picture journey is of help and or interest.

Ha - yes - like the USB ports ! Tonights work was interesting. Taking a good look at the PC, looks like a lot of the components from the first cabinet were actually inside the second. Taking out what was not needed leaves me with the following... 24v PSU Amp Standard PSU ( that powers everything ) The front of the PC looks like this... The red connector takes the feeds to the PayLink devices ( that won't be used ). However when you look at the Switches 1 and Switches 2, I reckon I can use the existing wiring with mininal work to attach to an iPac. That will feed upwards for the buttons on the cabinet using the exiting looms. Tomorrow evening when I get a chance to look at this some more is going to be some very careful cutting and testing. End goal is to have it operational apart from the coin stuff by the weekend.

You say that - but I've screwed up a bit. Let me mistakes and my cost not be yours and wait until finished to see if you really like it. The LED's really need to shine through the top panel in hindsight - the black acrylic is not really helping apart from blocking out the original lights. I've had to make a switch with a new set on order. This is a stupid amount I am spending on mistakes here - but - I suffer from OCD and well keep being focused on bits that bother me.

The led strip was simply stuck behind the slight raised gap of the marquee as the bolts going through the plastic give it a slight height - just enough for an LED kit.

Tonight’s work - please ignore the dusty screen...

Got some good but small progress done today about an hour or so ago. The challenge was always going to be how to attach the replacement bezel to the machine and have it now done - I can now shake the machine and it remains fixed in place. I notice the back of the machine had screws that could be removed on the top panel. I figured if I bolted the bezel together, I could make use of these... Making a frankenstein type bracked from the centre of the machine back that was to attach to the top left corner of the bezel real, I ended up with this... Look shit form behind but may work... ...the end result. A small - but 100% success.

Of all things, I used the work printer that is about 2 weeks old ! Hopefully new LED’s soon to put behind it. I am in fear...

Hope this comes out ok as working on phone. Had a little bit of time tonight and did some brief cabinet work. New acrylic arrived and the black was dark enough to shield the lights behind which was great on the top area. The LED strips died so have to reorder those, but a mock print out with the A3 cut sheet between the two sheets of acrylic show that this will work as I hoped.

Yes. Links for them are at the bottom of this post where I have the screen and numbers. The companies where everything came from are in brackets.

Sorry at work on mobile so quick reply... Yes on the buttons, there is eight on the sides and a lot on the bottom. Yes, I suspect the light would work. Tokens use the 10p Hopper and pay out 2 x 10p per token. This one because of Mame uses mGalaxy as a front end so yes for the navigation. The machine must be loaded for coins to work. The refill key can be configured to functional.

Sorry missed this. The PC on here is... The screen resolution is fairly low tho - 1366x768. It has an onboard graphics card and all the details I can find are Intel HD Graphics.

The tale of how to blow money, LOL ! So not excatly 100% happy with how the marquee plastics were coming out - if I had only read the site a little more. They actually do a black plastic which could be used for the rear sheet and a clear one for the front. They also do screw holes - again I am now reordering. However based on the preview of the artwork I've seen, I have no choice - my earlier shoddy efforts above would put it to shame. In other news, I popped the lastest layout from @Pook into the cabinet and recorded a dodgy phone video, game plays lovely in it...

Now it's in my hands...

Here is the marquee with some paper shoved in... This is it being held in front of the machine. I'll have to but some black paper behind the marque when it goes in, the Bank Job shines through too much - that's not going to be a problem and was kind of expected. Besides the lights behind it were a bonus, I never actually thought they were originally there so worst case, I'll just disable those.

Marque holder now made - this can be stuck on later - fortunatly the packaging allowed little black tabs to be used that should be out of sight when viewed from the front.

I have no idea. All I can say is the PC is clean apart from MFME, there is nothing really else installed on it and it's a fresh install.

Please do not attach ZIP file that contain the layouts. GAM + RAM are fine, full layouts of other peoples work that are in the downloads already are not.

CONVERSION - PART #1 01. Using a spare PC I found, I installed Windows 10 and setup to login automatically ( basically no password for the default user ). 02. The monitor for this turned out to be a 3M Touchscreen. The drivers were MT7.14.9.Win32-64.zip and these were downloaded from here... https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/touch-systems-us/resources/3m-touch-drivers-and-kernel-patches/ 03. The drivers were installed and the option to use HTD Mouse was picked. 04. Direct X9 Run Time was installed. https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/download/details.aspx?id=8109 05. MFME was installed. 06. For a test, the DX from @Tommy c was used. This was edited before moving to the cabinet to drag the borders of the layout as close to the playfield as possible. 07. MFME was set to lauch the game in full screen, I think I picked full screen max. 08. Below is a video so far - this is very rough and ready - just testing the touchscreen actually worked. Ignore the flashing buttons they're still hooked up to the original PC. Off out now - but stage one - proof of concept that this actually is going to work - done.

Clearly the one with the worst insurance policy... ...or if they are tied, the oldest so they leave home quicker.

Couple of updated pictures of this one...