slotsmagic

The ports at the bottom should work without a problem. However it's worth trying the ones at the top in case there is some issue with the ones at the bottom.

Ta for that. So your USB headers for the ports at the top of the PC do appear to be plugged into the headers at the right hand side of the case : I assume it's the USB ports on top of the PC that you are using? So you've got black extension leads plugged into there?

Right, I'm trying to help but it's very hard with limited information to go off. My suspicion is either (A) that your USB ports on your computer case are not plugged into your motherboard headers, or (B) that your motherboard BIOS has, for some reason, got USB ports turned off (doubtful!) I'm leaning towards (A). I no longer have a MK6 or MK7 motherboard as I've smashed all my digital machines for spare parts. However if you can get a photo of your motherboard, that would be a good start, also showing where you have your USB devices plugged in. When I say motherboard, you don't need to remove anything from the motherboard, just a photo of it installed in your PC case inside the machine. If you need to remove the cover of the PC I think it's only one or two small screws, either at the top and/or bottom of the case.

Have you definitely connected the internal USB headers? It's been a while but there's 2 or more connectors from the case of the PC back to the motherboard. Make sure they are connected correctly. I no longer have a PC to provide photos but I can see if I have any photos when I get back. If I recall correctly on a MK7 PC the USB plugs for the motherboard are yellow, if that's any help! Can't remember what colour they were on a Mk6 PC!

Ah, yes, that could well have been it. Apologies, I thought it was mentioned at the time about it possibly being an in-house emulation tool, which wouldn't have surprised me! If that's a simulation that an absolutely stunning job, let's be honest!

Not in MFME, no. The author of MFME (Wizard) sadly died a couple of years back, and so the last version will be v20.1. However there is nothing to say that Scorpion 6 won't ultimately end up in MAME or similar. I'm sure someone mentioned a while back that there was an emulator shown running on YouTube, which I believe was used by one of the last reel-based machine manufacturers, and I think it showed Scorpion 6 (but could have been Pluto 6?) running. Don't hold me to that, don't get your hopes up - if (like me) you can't code it yourself, you just have to hope someone else does it for you - and support them in any way you can.

Hi! I believe introduction posts are deleted once the member has received the required 'reputation' score to be an active member. It's a sort of filter system, to weed out spammers and leeches, and once it has served its purpose the post is removed. Bit harsh I know! You don't have to donate, although doing so gives you unlimited ability to download layouts, and access to the Legacy Area of the downloads, where you can download pretty much every layout made over the years. If you want to muck in and have a shot at layout creation at any point and seeing how things are put together, there's a few guides on the forum - you don't need any art software or anything to get started, but if you did want to get into the graphical side of it at any point you might need to get hold of something like Photoshop - I use that myself - or possibly GIMP as a free alternative. Not used GIMP for years but seem to recall it was decent for free!

Looks nice, assume it's using an Arduino or similar? I do have random 'tinkering' Raspberry Pis of various generations, and also a Flipper Zero, but really just as a curiosity, never actually done any programming with them. I just use them for ready made emulation, or in the case of the Flipper, as a backup for getting into work via the RFID panel on the door My only experience is with iPAC (alternative keyboard encoders are available) and PACdrive, using software already written like MFME that is designed to work with such hardware. Anything I learned I did by asking questions in this subforum, but also by looking at what others had done - it may take a bit of digging but there's plenty of stuff. As I continue clearing out the garage tomorrow (might be firing up the air conditioner and tucking the exhaust vent under one of the doors!) I may well come across more microswitches and things if needed, also (bit random) possibly things like 7seg displays from machines - not sure if you'd be interested in anything like that to tinker with? I guess it depends on whether they would be of use. Also not sure I provided some of the basic cables too (things like 3.5mm to dual RCA for the amplifier?), so happy to send them on at the same time, free of charge obviously. Anyway good to see you are enjoying what you are doing!

The same principle applies to the microswitches, albeit this time using the iPAC (which handles INputs) instead of the PACdrive (which handles OUTputs). With the microswitches for the buttons, you'll have a daisy-chained 'ground' for each microswitch - probably labelled COM or similar on the switch. That goes to the GND connector on the iPAC. Then for the button itself, normally the part of the microswitch labeled NO (Normally Open), you connect a wire from each NO terminal on the switch back to a separate input on the iPAC. Again, feel free to play about with the ready made up loom I provided as it's got lamps and microswitches already wired up, along with annotated cable notes, so should be able to give you clues (edit - corrected text as I'd originally referred to inputs twice in the first paragraph instead of inputs and outputs)

Sorry, image attached!! I assume they are, normal fruit machine lamps are 12V 1.2W from memory You can use them but you'd need an external power source, I prefer to just stick to LEDs I may have more kicking about but I just included the 3 spares from my last order

If you are using the 5V 10mm LEDs as I provided, then the PACdrive itself provides 5V and you don't need to worry about external power sources, relays or any of that stuff. If using the buttons you have above, I'd suggest getting some 5V LEDs unless you really want to run 12V and power them externally. Connect the lamp holder as per the picture below as provided by the manufacturer of the PACdrive - power is provided in a 'daisy chain' configuration to the positive terminal of each LED, and then a separate wire from each negative terminal back out the PACdrive, preferably in the order they are installed in the cabinet / MFME keyboard - whichever option you go with

I think there's several reasons why source code hasn't been leaked - quite often it seems to be written by one person. So there was (probably less so now!) the fact that it could be easily traced back to the original programmer, who at the least would lose their job over it. There may also have been NDAs or similar signed to not take / use code with competitors? Now that the industry regarding reel based, analogue AWPs is basically in it's death throes, I'd hope that more would become available. That's really just to satisfy my curiosity though, and fully get why people might not be keen. It's their hard work after all, even if their hard work was designed to get addicts like me to empty our wallets

Harry Headwound did a rather long video on it, 50+ minutes of it, but it's got timestamps so you can skip to the most relevant bits. Then again if you've got an hour to waste it's worth it as you'll get your head around the logic. https://youtu.be/h0A6B-LIvoE?si=HlwOmq9MrJS1lHOi

Glad it all arrived safely! The kit you've got is somewhat overkill for what sounds like an MFME keyboard project, but at least having the correct PACdrive for driving hoppers and whatnot means that when you feel like implementing coins in and out, you are all set. If you need more buttons or anything let me know, I've got boxes of them somewhere and they won't be of any use to me going forward! Reg (previous forum owner / admin) did a set of instructions here for an MFME keyboard, which would be a good place to start, as it'll show you how the wiring and whatnot are handled. You should have everything you need - the LEDs I've included are 5V white, I think you should have 10 in total so that'll be a start. 5V LEDs can be driven directly from the PACdrive using the power provided over USB. If you go for 12V lamps you need to take more precautions, so don't do that without research As for driving the hopper and stuff - if you are planning on just using MFME to handle coins in and coins out, there is no need for a separate Arduino or anything like that. MFME handles coins in and out via the PACdrive board you now have - all you need to do is provide the hopper with an external 12V power supply. If you are building around a desktop PC, which is what I did, you just use a 12V line from the computer's power supply (hence the fake WAGO connectors you'll find on the loom), and then you have a single PSU to power the PC, hopper, coin mech, buttons and everything. No need for multiple PSUs, relays, or any of that (assuming you stick to a single 12V hopper as I did!). The only other PSUs I used were for the speaker amplifier (the little power plug for that is in one of the jiffy bags with a loom in it), and the monitors. Everything else was powered from the PC PSU, which was only a 250W bronze rated small form factor unit - so it's not like you need some ridiculous power supply There will be more examples of things like MFME Keyboards - such as this one : https://www.desertislandfruits.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11737-humble-beginnings-my-mfme-keyboard-a-work-in-progress/ in this subforum, so you are in the right place Again, you already have a loom made up for 7 (I think) buttons, and there's some extra wiring and things included, so hopefully you'll be able to see what I've done and cross-reference with some of the threads mentioned to see how it all works I'll help as much as I can - although I do wish I'd written a manual as I went along

Just to clarify why I took the position I took - and you are free to disagree and tell me to get the eff out of the thread. This was the first post by the OP on the forum : Now, I would have assumed, based on the above, that the OP knew 'HH'. If I knew 'HH', I'd probably have said 'hi HH, I want to get into emulation, how do I do it?'. Based on that I would think that 'HH' would probably have said 'join DIF', albeit probably in a nicer way. 'HH' seems like a top bloke. Probably even the sort of bloke that would offer a collection ready to go, for free. Or maybe a beer. If you watched 'HH''s channel, you'd probably also see that DIF is mentioned pretty frequently as THE place to download content. Not eBay, not Amazon, not a car-boot sale, so I'd like to believe that someone who watches his content would already be aware of this being the place to download content. Also, did the user join here, based off of having watched content from 'HH', and then subsequently decide to go and buy the content in bulk from another site, rather than making a small donation here and building up a sensible collection? Yes, those are assumptions on my part, but had he not specifically stated knowing 'HH' I would probably have been more lenient. Then we have the issue people seem to have these days with an unwillingness to go back to the person with whom they formed a contract. So, he has bought something 'faulty' from someone who makes money off the back of layout designers and the late Wizard. Rather than going back to that seller - who makes money for doing nothing off the work of people here, living and dead - he decided to ask for help here. It could be MFME, it could be a car, it could be a TV. My default response will be, in 99% of cases - you need to go back to the seller. Your contract is with them. Since I just happen to despise the bellend who I assume is the seller, I think the best course of action - for the start - would be to put in a chargeback or similar against them and at least show them that they are not immune to financial penalty, and if they are going to profit of our / Wizard's work, they are at least going to offer some customer service. It does however also bring me to another point. I do feel that as the analog machines are all but dead now, with the exception of Reflex I believe, there will come a point where we really ought to package layouts and share via BitTorrent or similar, without the emulator, to remove the ability of people to profit in the first place. At the moment there really isn't an easy way for people to do so. I'm not a fan of large dumps of things (I find that if I have too much content to play with I get overwhelmed), but some people do prefer a large collection and just have done with it. That's a debate for another day though I think, I'm sure it's been covered before.

I'm a helpful chap but the story just didn't add up for me, combined with the fact that if you buy something faulty your first port of call should be the person you paid, especially since they are making money off the back of the hard working layout designers and late emulation coder. I do hope you get it going and it's possible someone else will contact you and help you get it running (and probably call me / us a bunch of c-words for not helping).

** SOLD ** All sold and paid for! I can't edit the thread I don't think so have put this here instead

I'm confused. You claimed last Friday that you knew 'Harry Headwound' from YouTube personally (in the Can You Dig It? thread) and yet now you are asking for help with a download you've presumably made via eBay or Facebook? I'd like to believe if you really knew 'Harry Headwound', you would have asked him, and he would have directed you here, or probably helped you with his personal collection?

Yeah, this is all still available, also got a bunch of buttons, probably other bits of use too

Click 'Config' at the top of MFME, and from memory there is a Clear RAM button at the bottom right of the window that pops up - just bare in mind I'm out and working from memory!

I only had limited experience when we had a brand new one sited... Not sure how many Lucky Strike Club were released in a Genesis cab as all the others I've seen have been in the flat top cab? I could be wrong but from memory I recall the cabinet being yellow? Don't be surprised if it plays nothing like I remember, it was in the late 90s and my brain has turned to mush since then

Not at PC at the moment but I'm sure on some machines of this era you get the meters up either by just having a door open and pressing start to view them, or on some you might have needed a door open and then to insert / turn refill key? Been ages though! I feel like we might have a had a Club Lucky Strike (similar gameplay, not sure if they are identical?) that also played very happily from a reset - I'm sure it was also a Genesis cab unlike the earlier flat-top versions, but can't remember if it was on MPU4 or MPU5.

Not really, although I do have an Interplay for sale in the for sale section, the coin mech is included and would be easy to implement, I could include a PACdrive Special and various other bits for sale in the cabinet building section if you wanted to drive hoppers? Would give you a foundation to work from if nothing else!

I don't have any use for the EPROM dumper now, nor the UV eraser, although I'd happily hold on to it for dumping ROMs for emulation? I mean I guess the dumper / burner may actually be useful for things like socketed BIOS chips on PCs since it's got loads of adapters Yeah on Facebook I've got a couple of hoppers and a PSU, as well as some of my Astra / Novomatic Firefox bits and a few bits left over from the T7s. All the metalwork has now been taken away by my old pizza delivery man! Had no idea he was into scrap metal but he saved me carting stuff off to the tip and if he can make a few quid for my laziness that's great

Yeah, I guess it depends on the era. I'd be thinking about say a single 8 joystick and maybe like 10 buttons max? Speaking of which I'm going to break my arcade bar-top cab next and just repurpose the Rpi4 as a little external emulation console.