Martinb

Something blocking the opto on the hopper? Try pulsing a few coins out see if it clears - what type of hopper is it?

Thats a good question ! You have me wondering now if I did apply templates to them all (somehow way back when) !

This is key especially as I mentioned in hindsight I’d have done the lamps to match what ‘most’ emulations default build as. That way the re-work per game is very minimal. I also vaguely recall I followed standards with the hoppers on PAC 1 15 & 16. More importantly in current emulation terms are the digi emulators only have one pac drive (atm) so make sure start (button 7 in your mapping) is on pac 1 AND the hoppers. I’ve overcome it by saving templates but I’d still prefer to load a game on MFME and the majority just work in basic form and then button colour tweaking can be saved for you all time favourites

You may get that anyway as it was on interplay which we can hope will be emulated soon!

Not as yet I do keep thinking about it. Thanks really appreciate that lets see yours progress then I will list a begging letter lol A few things I wish I'd done so you don't make the same mistakes: 1. For ease try and make the PAC lamp and button output match most of the emulator designer/layout standards on MFME. I did it with the iPAC but forgot on the drives due to the RGB setups of the buttons. 2. I still want to install a PC USB power setup so when I start and shutdown the PC it also does the same on the many PSU's. A bit like how T8 does. I will re visit this at some point 3. Fit a sub, sound is poor without is brilliant with (mine is a cheap test sub you can go mad!) the door speakers are fine. you will see the sound matting in the cab on my pic cap and makes all the difference too. 4. the 10p hopper on that setup has a bogus signal when it energises so you are always 10p short (needs a de-bounce), and on trial settings it wont pulse at all just a tiny pulse. You may be better fitting the other hopper if we can make it fit the setup of the interplay cab, another I need to re visit. You don't really need 10p's at all for most modern stuff but to enjoy the line up era its much better to have one. Cant think of anything else atm. Happy to help where I can. Enjoy!

Look forward to watching this progress you will put my rats nest to shame and I’ll have to re work it with your printed accessories! it’s an amazing cab to convert you will love it.

Late joining in but loving it so far, just installed and getting used to it across multi emulators too! Great work Little thing, any chance I can use 2 PAC's on attract please for future (or I maybe be missing how to do that)

Not commercially no, but you can do one yourself or buy one already done by someone else, but, they do require almost continual tweaking as you load different games and need to map buttons, payouts, lamps, screen sizing etc. It’s well worth it tho and you can use front end menus etc for launching games ….. it’s how far you go I suppose I’m hoping to finish mine off with a front end once I get some time to tinker …. winter tends to be tinker time hahaha

Click PORTAL up top and donate is over on the right hand side (see pic)

Thanks yes did consider that type of idea but luckily I got them working so all good

Yes same has a vega but I have an NV9 which I’m tempted to play with

Yes and I forgot the coin mech is also powered from the original Barcrest PSU. The existing loom made my ipac/pac drive wiring really easy and the tri colour buttons are great - so much so I have ordered the ID2 Pac drive so I can have all RGB on each button active for theme colour matching (21 outputs). I quite like matching the button colour and positions to the layout but its all time consuming fun lol I am wondering now about the note acceptor

I used the original Barcrest PSU 24v. I also use this PSU for the other hopper (although I opted for 12v to slow it down) and the cabinet fans oh and the coin tray light. It also powers my small amplifier (12v). The 5v was mainly for the relay and also the compact hopper opto circuit.

Annoyingly I ended up with 3 PSU's: 1. 5V PSU 2. The original Barcrest PSU (no 5v annoyingly) 3. The 24v PSU for the Intel NUC PC I just connected the ground on them all to ensure all the signalling to the ipac worked correctly. The Hopper relays I used are slightly different but I had 5v connected to the relay and then the pac drive output as the 5v trigger on the one side and I switched ground for the £1 universal hopper but the compact hopper needed a +12v switch as the ground was also used for the opto circuit. That make sense?

Got it spot on thank you so much!! Just got it working on a Scorp 4 I am messing with but yeah I get the jist. How awesome is all this stuff !

Yeah sorry to be clearer I wanted to have a 10p coin register as 10p as all I can seem to do atm is £1 (or 10p on older games) I can do exactly as you said looking at the bezel in edit mode / properties and add the coin mech no problem for a pound (for example) but how would I add 10p and 20p etc to that same machine? I have done all the ipac parts and they all work for all coins So how do I make other entries please, dummies guided lol (or link me to a post where its been asked I have had a search earlier and couldn't see anything but of course there is a lot there) Thanks

Another possibly already asked question apologies - how do I set 10p and 20p as credits on the games please from the coin mech?

You are a hero that worked in line up so I’ll persevere with the others thanks a lot Dave

Having said that I did not put a label could it be that? I presumed that was just a text reference (optional)

Thanks Dave I am almost certain thats what I tried on line up but I will have another go in the morning at play time. I was driving me nuts earlier!

Quick question on the hoppers please (I have had a quick scan and could not find anything) I have them working perfectly on machines which use hoppers eg Scorp 4, 5 and MPU5 etc but on the older stuff like System 5 and MPU3 no matter what I do I cant make the triac-hopper function work, or is it me? I am testing on Line Up and also Fairground Club (JPM) but I also tried MPU4 rocky horror. I can make the triacs pulse the hoppers (like a solenoid) but not triac-hopper. I noticed on diagnostics this on each of those I was trying too might be a clue? Add coins? I may have it all wrong in my head so hoping someone can educate me pleaseeeeeee

Front end menu next for me, here is a very quick video of it in action so far

The first resistor is defo required as per the specification, the second not so sure, but yeah it works

OK so I now have both hoppers working. The wiring for the Universal hopper (£1) is per Dave's post as I linked above and it worked a dream. The compact hopper (10p) parallel is a tad more complicated simply because its opto outputs +v and the ipac wants a 0V (GRND) input. I reversed this with an NPN transistor (I used a TIP 121) and ideally need to make up a small board to do the magic as it requires 2 pull up resistors as well - that all sounds very complicated but honestly with some wago clips, 2 resistors and a transistor (as it is at the moment) it isn't and in my case with this cabinet its important the original hopper setup worked as modification to fit other hoppers would have been even more difficult/messy that a few extra components. So there are 4 wires off the hopper Pin 1 Is the motor switching +12 or 24v (depends on the model, most are 24v but I am using 12v to slow it down) - this goes to the relay controlled by the PAC Drive Pin 2 is GROUND (just remember to link the grounds up if you use different PSU's like I ended up doing) Pin 3 Is +5v its the power for the Opto circuit Pin 4 Is the coin counting output (opto) and this is where the pull up resistors and NPN transistor are needed and then connects to the Ipac I am not convinced the second pull up resistor is needed and may try without it but it works like this at the moment beautifully. Ps - if like me you get a parallel hopper with the later added security board (causing it to inch when you apply motor power) then its simply a case of removing the small white cable from the motor and it will work normally.

So do I