Martinb

Click PORTAL up top and donate is over on the right hand side (see pic)

Thanks yes did consider that type of idea but luckily I got them working so all good

Yes same has a vega but I have an NV9 which I’m tempted to play with

Yes and I forgot the coin mech is also powered from the original Barcrest PSU. The existing loom made my ipac/pac drive wiring really easy and the tri colour buttons are great - so much so I have ordered the ID2 Pac drive so I can have all RGB on each button active for theme colour matching (21 outputs). I quite like matching the button colour and positions to the layout but its all time consuming fun lol I am wondering now about the note acceptor

I used the original Barcrest PSU 24v. I also use this PSU for the other hopper (although I opted for 12v to slow it down) and the cabinet fans oh and the coin tray light. It also powers my small amplifier (12v). The 5v was mainly for the relay and also the compact hopper opto circuit.

Annoyingly I ended up with 3 PSU's: 1. 5V PSU 2. The original Barcrest PSU (no 5v annoyingly) 3. The 24v PSU for the Intel NUC PC I just connected the ground on them all to ensure all the signalling to the ipac worked correctly. The Hopper relays I used are slightly different but I had 5v connected to the relay and then the pac drive output as the 5v trigger on the one side and I switched ground for the £1 universal hopper but the compact hopper needed a +12v switch as the ground was also used for the opto circuit. That make sense?

Got it spot on thank you so much!! Just got it working on a Scorp 4 I am messing with but yeah I get the jist. How awesome is all this stuff !

Yeah sorry to be clearer I wanted to have a 10p coin register as 10p as all I can seem to do atm is £1 (or 10p on older games) I can do exactly as you said looking at the bezel in edit mode / properties and add the coin mech no problem for a pound (for example) but how would I add 10p and 20p etc to that same machine? I have done all the ipac parts and they all work for all coins So how do I make other entries please, dummies guided lol (or link me to a post where its been asked I have had a search earlier and couldn't see anything but of course there is a lot there) Thanks

Another possibly already asked question apologies - how do I set 10p and 20p as credits on the games please from the coin mech?

You are a hero that worked in line up so I’ll persevere with the others thanks a lot Dave

Having said that I did not put a label could it be that? I presumed that was just a text reference (optional)

Thanks Dave I am almost certain thats what I tried on line up but I will have another go in the morning at play time. I was driving me nuts earlier!

Quick question on the hoppers please (I have had a quick scan and could not find anything) I have them working perfectly on machines which use hoppers eg Scorp 4, 5 and MPU5 etc but on the older stuff like System 5 and MPU3 no matter what I do I cant make the triac-hopper function work, or is it me? I am testing on Line Up and also Fairground Club (JPM) but I also tried MPU4 rocky horror. I can make the triacs pulse the hoppers (like a solenoid) but not triac-hopper. I noticed on diagnostics this on each of those I was trying too might be a clue? Add coins? I may have it all wrong in my head so hoping someone can educate me pleaseeeeeee

Front end menu next for me, here is a very quick video of it in action so far

The first resistor is defo required as per the specification, the second not so sure, but yeah it works

OK so I now have both hoppers working. The wiring for the Universal hopper (£1) is per Dave's post as I linked above and it worked a dream. The compact hopper (10p) parallel is a tad more complicated simply because its opto outputs +v and the ipac wants a 0V (GRND) input. I reversed this with an NPN transistor (I used a TIP 121) and ideally need to make up a small board to do the magic as it requires 2 pull up resistors as well - that all sounds very complicated but honestly with some wago clips, 2 resistors and a transistor (as it is at the moment) it isn't and in my case with this cabinet its important the original hopper setup worked as modification to fit other hoppers would have been even more difficult/messy that a few extra components. So there are 4 wires off the hopper Pin 1 Is the motor switching +12 or 24v (depends on the model, most are 24v but I am using 12v to slow it down) - this goes to the relay controlled by the PAC Drive Pin 2 is GROUND (just remember to link the grounds up if you use different PSU's like I ended up doing) Pin 3 Is +5v its the power for the Opto circuit Pin 4 Is the coin counting output (opto) and this is where the pull up resistors and NPN transistor are needed and then connects to the Ipac I am not convinced the second pull up resistor is needed and may try without it but it works like this at the moment beautifully. Ps - if like me you get a parallel hopper with the later added security board (causing it to inch when you apply motor power) then its simply a case of removing the small white cable from the motor and it will work normally.

So do I

That layout has its own dedicated hi lo buttons so that’s likely the problem as you said - I’ll have a tinker on mine too as that’s an interesting one you seem to have duplicated the lamp number tho?

Absolutely I will, just let me get the 10p compact hopper one working that’s been the challenge - Dave / @WibbleWobbledid the hard work on the universal £1 one as I linked above so you could get yours pre wired ready Have you got a parallel hopper to use?

Yep thanks Dave I did your wiring all ready prior to the hopper arriving today and boom it worked from the off thank you.

Yaaay the pound one worked a dream I'm buzzin lol

Quick update - I have been having fun with a money controls parallel compact hopper notably regarding the opto output but I have finally cracked it and the ipac now sees coins as they fly out. Basically it (by default) outputs +v and the ipac wants ground so a NPN transistor later and a couple of pull up resistors and a lot of head scratching but I have a working hopper. I also got tricked by apparently a later mod done with a security board that every time I tried to power the hopper it just inched and stopped - I found the circuit and was able to disable it. This was apparently to stop the direct feed to payout from attacking the machines supposedly. Onto the parallel £1 one now, already proven uneversal hopper so fingers crossed @davep180Dave your schematic works in one (no pressure lol). The hope very much is the interplays original setup for coins in and out is still part of the build, hence using the same hoppers (just parallel).

Understand the thinking but not necessary at all on these inputs, the grnd (or common in this case) to each pushbutton can be daisy chained no problem to a 32 inputs if that many was required. I am like you tho, my second grnd is used for payout but they are basically the same just the ipac provides 2 terminals for ease.

I do use a hub but only for low power devices like keyboard, mouse and touchscreen but if you have enough for what you need than no need for the hub no.

Thanks for your help and wisdom much appreciated - yeah thats exactly what I meant but if I drove the motor direct (from the relay) the opto should still output, shouldn't it? or on a CCTalk model is that counting just not happening the same as a parallel and it sends the data back as its serial protocol messaging I wonder - I suppose I could wind it round and see I will have a little look when time next allows might save me a few quid. There are definitely opto outputs labelled on the hopper identical to the post from Dave I linked above. It cant be as bad to strip down as a smart hopper, what fun I had changing a belt on one of those recently