Jump to content

Amusements

  • Posts

    1,842
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Posts posted by Amusements

  1. Your project is really coming along nicely. You cant beat doing it yourself! In the end, you get all the satisfaction of a working project:)

    I noticed you are using 15 illuminated buttons, so I assume you are only going to add one hopper (Unless you are using 2 PacDrives (16 outputs each))

    Just in case you had not thought of it already?......I would recommend adding a few hidden buttons (non illuminated) (esc) (F3) (F6) as I have found these invaluable on my set up. 

    • Like 1
    • Awesome 1
  2. Well done! A nice tidy job with a small footprint:)

    I noticed on FE you said 110 hours to print....How much filament did it take?

    BTW....For Christmas you could always make your dad a tower that fits next to it. Put a coin Mech up the top, a hopper inside, and a pay out tray at the bottom. You would only need to add power and a few relays, then connect to the cabinet with a LAN cable. Maybe make another one for the other side, next birthday. 

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, justme2019 said:

    Can I see your set up please mate?

    Sure.
    setup.thumb.jpg.0b19bc1b38ef9c2849495ad1ffc2409d.jpg2
    2 USB cables go from the PC to the Button box, which houses the IPac and PacDrive, and a LAN cable goes into the back of the box below with the hoppers, mech and note acceptor (Hacked toy money box).
    20200511_175607.thumb.jpg.689fd7f223775433bf2b912649977751.jpg

    The speakers plugged in to the monitor add a bit of vibration to the whole thing when played in its static position.
     

     

     

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 2
    • Awesome 1
  4. Nice set up Craig:)

    I have a similar monitor set up on a wall mounted arm, and put my button box on top of a separate box with hoppers and mechs in it. Everything is easily moved around, and takes up very little space.

    4 hours ago, justme2019 said:

    Not really much point of a hopper is there, isn't that a bit overkill.

    It does add a lot more realism, and makes a nice money box. It is nice to have a handful of coins and play to win something tangible.  I have 1500 MFME layouts that work great with my set up, including the Electro Mechanical slots and quiz games. Unfortunately I can not go and play a real machine, so this is the next best thing.

     

    • Like 1
  5. Definitely an interesting project, and something I initially thought about trying myself, but I went down the wood route instead.

    Good luck with it. It will be interesting to know how much filament you use, print times, and on what printer:)

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, saunders22 said:

    But I messed up with my buttons panel.  Woods too thick for the threads to catch. So I'm looking for another solution for that. 

    You can always drill a hole from underneath, going part way through the thick wood, and make the bottom part of the hole big enough for the plastic nut to tighten the button.

     bits.thumb.jpg.b9dffda5f777e049737260c59e957cf4.jpg

    • Like 2
  7. 57 minutes ago, stevedude2 said:

    Some of those games mentioned in the OP sound like they might be Dutch and unemulated, which might make finding them tricky...

    Yes Turbo Reel, Club 2000 and Mistral do not sound familiar.

    Andy Capp and Cash Buster are in the legacy downloads under Barcrest and JPM. Not sure where Reel Cash is, but it must be here somewhere because Reg released it!

  8. For me..I always make 3 versions of all the layouts I download.
    One "as it comes/as released" with all the buttons/LED's/hoppers set up for my cabinet (That becomes my main back up).

    I then reset the  RAM , refill, and adjust volume, and make that the version I personally play. A copy of that is saved for next year when I reset my stats.

    That way, I get a fuller experience of what was originally intended.

     

     

     

     

     

     

  9. This happens to me a lot, because I always reset the RAM on the layouts in my play list, so I can see my own stats.

    I am also interested to know the right way to solve this, as I always have to try all the tick boxes, open/shut back door, reset ect (Trial and error) to get the these type of games to initialize after a RAM reset.

    For example. For me to get this particular game to work, I did the following. 

    Put in Edit Mode and open Game Configuration
    Unticked everything. (Coin Mech) (Note Acc) (Hopper1) (Hopper 2) <- not needed I think.
    Ticked S Door (Top of MFME). 
    Ticked all DES boxes (In Game Config).
    Unticked S Door

    Re-ticked S Door
    Ticked all the Trusted Boxes (underneath DES).
    Unticked S Door and the game initialized.

    For volume and hopper fill, I Re-ticked S Door and waited for it to initialize, then ticked Refill and then clicked Top Up to fill the hopper. I then pressed the CHANGE STAKE button until the display said VOLUME CONTROL and pressed START. This lets you adjust the Volume.

    Unticked Refill and S Door, come out of Edit Mode and everything was perfect.

     

    • Awesome 1
  10. A lot of the common buttons are the same, like the hold, start, cancel and collect. However you can program each button to what ever key press you like. There are 2 short cut boxes on each button. Or you could even duplicate the button to add even more short cuts. You can also use the same key press for different game buttons, so long as they are not active at the same time. IE: an exchange button can also be used as a feature button.

     

    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, Ruffmeister said:

    Wow thanks dude. Do you have any instructions for the beginner if how this was achieved at all? And a parts list so I can see if I could do the same?

    Not as such, other than a couple of wiring diagrams I made for my own reference. I think the best thing to do is read all the threads on cabinets if you haven't already. Then decide what route to take, and then ask for help along the way. There will always be someone who can answer your questions.

     

  12. My first prototype (Cardboard box) had a 3D printed slot, and a micro switch - wired in to an external numerical keypad. 
    V2 was a $5 Dollar (12v) mech from china that triggered a $2 (5v/12v) relay - wired in to an external numerical keypad.
    I also wired my buttons in to the keypad as well.

    V3 with a hopper, mech and LED buttons, used an IPac and Pacdrive with relays, instead of the numerical keyboard.

    V4 (Wooden box) has 2 hoppers, 2 mechs, LED buttons, an IPac and a Pacdrive , and has worked perfectly for over a year now.
    Recently I added a 3D printed note slot, which sucks in a note and gives change (controlled by timer relays).

     

     

    • Like 1
  13. @vectra666 You complete div!

    BTW. If you have a G27 logitech steering wheel, there is a ScriptHookV and a gears.asi mod for this at https://www.gta5-mods.com/ which works wonderfully, especially if you have a massive 4K screen, and there is also a free VR mod https://github.com/LukeRoss00/gta5-real-mod. Just make sure you disable any mods if you  are going to play online. I always have 2 separate copies of GTA, one for offline (story mode)  and the other for online with no mods.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...