No1Stoney

Has this happened as soon as you sorted your common ground ? If so then its probably related to that. If it worked fine for a bit since then, its probably not related. Does sound like maybe a wire is shorting somewhere? Edit: just seen you said tried in another pc so unlikely to be that. Is it still doing that with all wires disconnected ?

Have you tried different USB ports ? You're using a USB hun aren't you? Maybe its faulty or overloaded.

No I don't think they are. But I believe they work in such a way that will work with MFME if wired correctly. I don't have any experience with these. The universal one is in Reg's build and I think the wiring is also different.

Yes they do. There are also Suzo's cube hopper and Coin control's universal hopper that will also work in these builds. all have to be parallel versions.

Got there in the end. Well done to everyone involved and shows what can be achieved by sharing knowledge and putting heads together. If the hopper stops after 1 coin maybe the coin sensor is dirty ? If the hopper detects a coin for too long across the sensor it stops the hopper as it thinks there is a fault. Am stumped on the 10 second delay though. Has that been resolved now?

Have a look at the posts on page 3 for the explanation on the ground solution

I think that would be right although i think you would also need a 0v going back from hopper to the 24v as well as a 0v to the 12v psu. At least that would create a connection to the same 0v. As much as I think it should be ok to try, try at your own risk here.

Unfortunately I am not sure on that one as I'm not great with all that. I imagine it wouldn't matter if you linked the 2 earths together and try again but I really can't be sure so seek someone else's advice on that one

So what happens now when you try actual payouts? I have 4 of the azkoyen hoppers all rated 24v but all working off the pc's 12v supply. Couldn't tell you what wattage the psu is but I reckon about 350w. I think that 200w would be fine. Also try the test all button

If you hold the test button it should keep the hopper running until you let go if I remember rightly. Progress at least!

It might matter though as they are running on separate circuits you see. If you can try the other way then give it a go. If nothing else it will eliminate that being the problem . There should easily be a wire you can splice into from the pc that runs the usbs. Its also the thing that both you two have in common. A separate psu.

I still am thinking this is to with 'common ground' issues. On my cab, the USBs are plugged into the PC. From that same PC, I've used the PSU from it and spliced into a 12v/0v wire to power my devices. This means that the USB and my devices share the same ground/0v. If you are using a separate PSU to the one that powers your PC, your USB ports are on SEPERATE ground/0v to the devices, if you see what I mean.. I'm thinking this is possibly your issue. @Reg do you have any thoughts on this?

OK guys, I'm a little stumped as to why its not working. So for clarity, this is the way it should be wired as this is currently my setup.. Apologies, I remembered I upgraded to 5v bulbs when I modified my cab a few months ago. However that shouldn't make any difference. For 5v bulbs, make sure its wired like this. If it is, then your issues are not a result of how its all connected.

So This is my setup PSU 12v ---> pacdrive lamps daisy chained (mine are 12v bulbs) ---> hoppers x 2 ------------------------------------> | <--- Pacdrive '+' port ---> Coin mech ------------------------------------> | <--- IPac 'GND' port | PSU 0v <-----------------------------------------------------------| Hope that makes sense. But as you can see all the devices return to the same 0v black wire on the PSU

So for example, 1 negative lead from the PC PSU splits off to all your device's negative wires. If you get what I mean. That's how mine is set up, so everything is sharing a common ground (negative). I have no idea if this is the issue, but its worth a try

There should be a way of checking if the pacdrive is sending a signal to the hopper if you was to use a multimeter across pin 16 and the hopper negative it should beep (and show 5v if you change to voltage read) when the machine 'pays out'. If you get a result from that, then that would tell you your wiring is OK? I don't pretend to know much about circuits etc but this is something I would try in your situation. Double check you are using the same 0v connection for your hopper as you are to the ipac and the pacdrive.

You're the second person to say their hopper isn't working and I'm stumped as to why. If you've definitely checked all your wiring/connections and that whatever power supply you're using is working as it should, then it does point towards a faulty hopper but I am sceptical as that would be 3 hoppers between the 2 of you. I've got 4 in use and not had a faulty used one. I'm starting to think that it is something to do with how the negative wires are connected as @Reg has already mentioned in another cab thread. In my cab, ALL my negative wires goto the same place, creating a common ground. Do your Negative wires all use a common ground? So for example, does your pacdrive/ipac and hopper ground wires goto the same place? If not, maybe try that? I'll be honest though, I'm not exactly sure whats going on here and trying to eliminate possible errors.. Also while you're at it, make sure your hopper is running in mode 1 by removing the jumper pin from the bottom of the hopper.

I'm not sure what you mean here?

This is funny money on epoch tech. Unfortunately not a lot that I think will be different to mine here but this is how my pacdrive screen is set up for hoppers. As for the layout itself I have done nothing with it to make the payouts work. So try this layout and let me know how it goes.

So, now look at WinIPAC, and see which input corresponds to those that you've listed above, and change them to a keyboard shortcut of your choice. maybe 0,9,8,7,6 ? but its upto you. (Or you can leave them as they are) Now in MFME, you need to create a new lamp, and define it as a coin/note button and select which coin type it is (This will take a bit of working out if you're unsure, but the best place to check is to go into the properties of the £1 coin button that was used on the layout and see what type it is, then choose the same type for 10p/5p/20p/50p) Some trial and error may be required here. I will have a look shortly and take a photo of my MFME settings on my cab. And finally, yes, £2 coin is simply the 50p input 4 times. So you don't need to define a £2 coin as it will use the 50p one.

Yes That's right.

its used to assign lamp numbers to the button shortcuts for each layout. But I am unsure if it also assigns hopper information to the hoppers you have set-up too. I always click the config button when I've loaded in my preset on each layout.

Yes, definitely. Especially if you have some cheap materials that you can use for the project. The buttons and everything else you buy can be transferrable to a new cab later. By doing this, you can make sure you figure out how the ipac and pacdrive get wired up and test all that first. I made a button box for my friend who was really keen to get a cab like mine but didn't have the space for it.

Firstly, check you have a light (green?) on your mech to indicate its powered. Then, to test.. Make sure you have a keyboard press entered into all your wired iPac inputs on WinIPAC.. Then open notepad and have the window focussed.. Insert one of each type of coin and see which keyboard entry it types with each coin and make a note which coin to which key Now, change those values in WinIPAC to a keyboard entry of your choice. Then in MFME, each layout, make sure you have a button assigned to the coin and keyboard entry you wish to use for each coin type. You will have to create your own buttons for 5p/20p/50p and usually 10p too as most layouts only have a £1 input by default.. This does take some time if you have many layouts to convert. I always hide these buttons off screen.