smithers18

3D model for my coin insert has been uploaded here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2049863-coin-insert-for-arcade-fruit-machine-pinball-etc#profileId-2212214 This is a full solution i.e. it incorporates the faceplate/bezel, the coin slide and a mounting point for an optocoupler sensor. All it needs is a 40mm hole drilled into your cabinet and it will slot inside with the faceplate covering the hole.

I'm not sure if this is the best way but I find it easy enough to do it this way and it also gives me an opportunity to check the lamps for a specific button too at the same time: Open a layout Click 'Design>Edit' from top menu Right-Click on the button you want to change and select 'Properties' Look for the 'Shortcuts' field (you can assign 2 keyboard shortcuts per button) Either change the existing shortcut or add a second shortcut as desired Save the button changes Once you have made all the changes you need then click 'Design>Edit' again to exit edit mode Save the layout (This is all from memory because I'm not in front of my cabinet right now! I will edit if I got any of it wrong)

I got it off Ebay, here is a link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135668273108? Whilst I'm here, I have made a 3D printable version of this slide now if anyone would be interested in having the file?

Ah right. I am also using the free version. There might be an online tool or something though perhaps?

I dont I'm afraid but if I can do it somehow from sketchup then I can give it a shot though? Again I'm really new to this so haven't got much of a clue!

Well good luck! Do let me know how you get on and just ask if you have any questions.

Apologies I thought I'd already shared it but here it is: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NChwLulrmMPEZcwjVZAKTWR5t_Pww8zM/view?usp=sharing Im pretty new to 3D modelling so hopefully this gives you what you need! I have since moved to Fusion instead of Sketchup but I don't have it modelled in Fusion, only Sketchup.

OK I have finalised this model and I'm ready to share. You can download the file for free via this 'MakerWorld' link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1984511-fruit-machine-controller-mfme-emulator#profileId-2135094 (I have uploaded it there because it retains the print profile settings etc. which makes it easier to print with my tried and tested settings but if anyone has any difficulties then I could just upload the raw 3d model file here instead). The final dimensions I used are 250mm L x 120mm W x 85mm H (at highest point). This is just the right balance between a compact size and enough room to fit everything inside the box. Also I have decided that adding supports is necessary! It makes the mounting rails for the modular board mounts print out much more reliably. The supports are only small and they snap off really easy so no issues there. Print time is approx. 5 - 6 hours for everything on my Bambu Labs A1 and I just use standard PLA basic with 10% infill and it is plenty strong enough. Please let me know if you try this out or have any issues etc. All the best, Steve

Well I'm onto version 10 of this print trying to figure out the right size to fit everything in and I think I'm finally nearly there! There's alot to cram inside in such a small space, as seen below: I reckon I need to add another 1cm to the width and it will be just enough. It works now but I feel like I am forcing the wires in against their will! I decided to make a modular system for mounting the Pacdrive and controller board. This way you can choose what board you have, print it out, screw it onto the mount and just slide it in place: Anyway, it is nearly ready to share once I resize it one last time to make it wider and here is a POC showing it working with MFME: I printed this on my Bambu Labs A1 and it prints fine without any supports however it does nag me to add supports during the preparing stage (I just ignore it). If anyone would like to test it out with their printer please let me know. All the best, Steve

Hi, thanks for the suggestion. I gave it another test and there doesn't appear to be any spike in cpu, gpu or memory usage when the crash occurs. I took a before and after crash screenshot: Before: After: I managed a full game, feature board and jackpot before it randomly crashed whereas normally it happens within the first few spins of the reels. Bizarre.

Thanks, I am using Coinops for the frontend with a vertical theme applied. I've uploaded it to the link below if you'd be interested. You'd just need to add your roms, videos and logos: https://mega.nz/file/RQZlyawI#bCefpDzyM0PojjSBj5pnTMPkryAXUauuhE4Wbx_ZKdA

Just wanted to canvas interest before I dive too deep into this. Basically, I recently bought a 3D printer and got into learning a bit of 3D modelling with Fusion. It popped into my head that maybe I could design a printable control panel. So I've had a bit of a tinker and came up with an initial design, maximising the available space on my print bed (256x256x256). Here is a draft print (ignore the colours, its just a test using some spare PLA): Its basically just a box with 24mm holes cut out in the top panel and a slight incline so the controls subtly lean toward you. I added mounting posts for a Pacdrive and a hole in the back big enough for USB cables to poke through. Everything screws together nicely with some short M3 self tapping screws, no additional nuts needed. Its obviously quite light, will be a little heavier when everything is added in but might require some extra weight to be added (a fishing weight or 2 perhaps?). There isn't a great deal of space available on the control panel so its limited to the smaller square or round buttons with a 23/24mm diameter mounting and I have added the button graphics just to give an idea of how it could be set up (an additiinal 2 buttons could be added on the top row if needed). The inner box has more than enough room for a pacdrive and a usb controller of some sort (Zero Delay or otherwise). Here is an example of how it could be used alongside a Windows tablet PC: So the aim is to just have something easy for someone to download and print to get themselves a controller up and running, albeit on a much smaller scale, and I just really wanted to see if there was any interest from anyone here or any comments or tips for improvements etc? I will happily share the files here, and for free of course, I just need to make some tweaks to the mounting posts to make them more sturdy and i may round the corners of the box too. Will update with progress if there is any interest. All the best, Steve

A massive shame indeed

I have the same issue and thats why I opted for a touchscreen in my build so I didn't need to account for too many buttons (I didnt have the space for any more on the control panel!). I tried to keep it simple and I included a 'spare' button that could be anything the layout needs (Barcrest, Collect, Change Stake, Bonus etc), and I just make sure I map the lamps to it via the pacdrive config so its more obvious when playing the game. I also found that having the hold buttons immediately after the cancel/collect button makes it line up better in my screen, i.e. the hold 1 2 and 3 are directly under reels 1 2 and 3 on the screen (for most layouts I play) which made it feel more natural. Example below:

Sorry to pull up an old thread but I am having the same issues with MFME crashing in certain games and wondered if anyone ever found a solution? An example for me would be "A Knights Trail", it will load up ok and then after maybe 1 or 2 spins it will just freeze. MFME itself is still functional but the game does not respond? Most other games run perfectly fine but some show this same behaviour. I have the latest runtimes installed along with directx and Im running an up-to-date Windows 11 with latest drivers for everything. This is my cabinet pc specs: MSI A320 motherboard Ryzen 5 3500x cpu Nvidia GTX 950 GPU 8gb ram (dual channel) I can do some more digging and provide more games that have this issue if it helps.

I found that around 45 to 50cm was about right for me. I just like to have the bare minimum (cancel, 3 holds, exchange, start and 1 additional 'barcrest' button that I use for various things depending on the layout). Everything else I just use the touch screen. If I was you I would go Pacdrive from the start, it is so much better and you will inevitably want to have it!

I hit a snag on my first bartop build in that I didn't leave enough room for a coin hopper. So I decided to start again from scratch and this time I took the time to model it up in Sketchup first to make sure everything would fit. I still wanted it to be as small as possible but to also fit a coin hopper and coin mech and a bigger screen (27in instead of 24in). I also recently bought a 3D printer so I wanted to utilise that in the build too! So fast forward a few months and here is the end result: (The black cupboard underneath is seperate) This is all made out of 18mm mdf (and it is very heavy!) along with some custom 3d parts I made. It has a 27inch touch screen, Suzo Happ Cube Hopper MKII, Barcrest coin bezel with custom 3D printed mount plate and coin slide. I also added a real slots topper, the insides I replaced with an ESP32 running WLED with 5050 RGB LED's. The buttons are from Ali Express and I replaced the (Loud!) switches with some quieter Cherry switches I had lying around. The graphics for the buttons were courtesy of ChatGPT and I just printed them on normal paper. I might redo them at some point but for now they are good enough. I added an LED strip to Illuminate the coin tray blue and also added a hidden button that will trigger the hopper to pay out some coins to play with. The coin tray itself is a stainless steel loaf tin! It's a fraction too big in hindsight so it's really squeezed in there tight but it works. I 3D printed a volume control bezel to make it easier to mount the little amp (PAM8403) to the 18mm mdf and I printed some Wago connector mounts for the inside to help with cable management. Here is a view from the inside: Quite a spaghetti in there, even with some cable management going on! The PC inside is a Ryzen 5 3500x, 8GB ram and a GTX 950 which seems to be more than enough for what I need. Everything runs off the pc power supply too as its all either 12v or 5v which can all be taken from a molex connector. Overall I'm really happy with how it turned out and it definitely paid to spend some time 3D modelling it all first. Everything fitted together pretty much as expected with very little tolerance (I dont think it could be any smaller with a working coin mech and hopper installed!). Happy to share my Sketchup file for the build and the various 3D print files etc if anyone was interested. Here is a video of it in action: All the best, Steve

I'm in the process of making a 3D printable controller box and I'd be happy to share it here if anyone is interested. It would make it much easier for folks wanting to dip their toes in using a "proper" controller, albeit on a smaller scale (25cm maximum width).

I done the same as you, I used ChatGPT. It didn't quite get it 100% correct but I'm sure if I persevered it would have. Either way I used it for now and I'm quite happy enough. Happy to share the file if anyone wants it.

Well it was a pain in the backside but I got it all finished and it looks great. Its a self contained unit now with an ESP32 inside with all the wiring hidden within and I added a switch to the back so I can flick it on or off. I have a single barrel jack coming out of it (into a hole in the top of my cab which is not seen) which I plug into a 5v molex connector from the PSU and it boots up when I turn the cab on. Looks really good, maybe a little bigger than I thought it was going to be though! Video showing it in action: (The cab itself is not finished yet, still got lots to do but at least I can tick this off the list!).

Thanks for your replies. I figured it wouldn't be so simple and I don't want to start having to think about introducing 34v into my setup! I have stripped it down instead and I'm putting an ESP32 in there with WLED. It would look just as good as the 'real thing' in the end but with more flexibility on the colour schemes, patterns etc. Only downside is that it won't integrate into any games by default but I imagine it could probably be achieved via the pacdrive and a GPIO input pin on the ESP32 if I ever wanted to try it. Here is my progress so far, out with the old LED's and in with the new and thats the main box done: (looks really good in person) I'm now just working on adding the surround LED's for which I will add a rainbow effect via WLED. Thanks again, Steve

Hi all. I have bought a topper for my new cabinet build and I opened it up today hoping it might be clear how to wire it up but of course its not very clear! I have attached a picture below of the one I bought and inside the board is stamped with 'Barcrest' with a ref number of '94v-0 E157925' which seems to be a generic backlight inverter board (I would guess that's what is lighting up the main part of the display and there will be a separate circuit for the LED surround?). I can't fathom out what voltage is needed because there is no labelling on the input wires and they are all just coloured red so it isn't even obvious what the polarity is? I don't want to start poking around with it until I'm certain on the voltage and polarity so I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with these and maybe hacked one for their own build before? If I can't figure it out then I'll probably strip it and start over by putting my own LED strip inside with an ESP32 to control them via WLED. To be fair that might even be the best option regardless since I'd be able to make a custom playlist for the lights etc.

Hi. Just wondering if anyone here knows where I could buy a 'coin adjustment plate' for a Cube Hopper MKII for a decent price in the UK? I need the 10p coin size which I think is this part here (B2): https://eu.suzohapp.com/en/products/hoppers/10-0238-2 or maybe this one might work too (B1): https://eu.suzohapp.com/en/products/hoppers/10-0238-1. I have the right size disc but need this little metal part in order for the coin to pass and be ejected out (currently it will jam a 10p because its too big). I've found somewhere in Austria selling it but its a tenner for the part and around £14 delivery on top which I can't bring myself to pay for a crappy little piece of metal! I'm considering adjusting the one I have (which seems to be 5p size?) or making one myself but I'm not particularly good with metal work so I'm hoping someone here might know where to buy one or have one they'd sell? Thanks, Steve

Absolutely, that's the best way to enjoy the games! Have a look in the 'Cabinet Building' section of the forum.

Well my hopper arrived today and as expected its too big to squeeze into my bartop build. Doh! I guess I have a few options: 1) Make an extra addon piece to the back of the cab to accommodate the hopper BUT directing the coin output to the front of the cab would be a big problem which I really don't know how to achieve? 2) Find out if there are any smaller hoppers out there (Cube Hopper maybe?) and see if they would be a better fit, but I would still have the coin routing issue. 3) Add the hopper into the stand I made instead of trying to fit it into the bartop machine - This is the easiest option but it would lose its 'portability' and would no longer really be a bartop machine! 4) Start over and build a new, bigger machine whilst still trying to retain a 'portable' vibe - this would be my least favourite option however if I were to do this then I'd try and source an external touchscreen monitor (anyone got one for sale?) instead of using an all-in-one PC. That way I could have a better spec PC and also it would be alot easier to fit that the hacking I needed to do for the all-in-one! So I am currently at a loss of what to do, I suspect I may go for option 3 (add the hopper into the stand) unless anyone knows of a trick to route the coin output from the back of the machine into the front? To be honest, I'm a little unsure how you normally route the coins out anyway, do people normally just have the hopper directly behind / above the coin catching part, where you would stick your hand in and pick out the coins? Appreciate any thoughts, especially if I'm missing something obvious! On a side note, thanks to @davep180for his old wiring diagram for these Money Controls Universal MK4 hoppers - I got it working first time, cheers.