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Building an idea WibbleWobble's MFME Cabinet build


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Hello,

@davep180 has asked if I could post some details of my cabinet build so here goes

Following re-discovering MFME in 2017 I got properly into rediscovering a misspent youth, many hours enjoyment was had playing MFME on my PC.
Then seeing Uptown47, StoneyNo1 and Reg building their fantastic cabinets I decided to start collecting the bits and have a go.

This is likely to become an image heavy post, so apologies to anyone viewing on a phone or tablet.

Below is a brief discussion of the process and some issues I hit (and how I would do something differently)

I started looking around at cabinet designs and decided that I fancied something along the lines of a Maygay Italian Job or Simpsons.

 

I do not have the space to handle a full sheet of MDF, but did some research and reading and discovered that with some of the modern wood glues, Edge bonded 18mm MDF is nearly impossible to break at the bond once cured.

I started by drawing the plans and then created a full size template and created the cabinet sides in 3 parts which were then glued and left to cure:

480845152_CabSides.thumb.jpg.e1a2575df883f7884015487b6332bddb.jpg

These were then attached to a CLS Frame to establish a free standing clamped structure to ensure that the machine was an acceptable size:

1863961393_Onframe.thumb.jpg.3b4abdffcb8e7a264470ff416657d814.jpg

Once I had made some minor adjustments this was removed and the back was attached using assembly joints (knockdown fittings):

1216112131_Backinplace.thumb.jpg.e53b42bf22388a9738ddad208d773548.jpg

Although it is difficult to see in the image above, the back is in 2 parts, so either can be removed to access various parts once both sides we added to back the cabinet became free standing:

842570889_BackandSides.thumb.jpg.4f701801275161abe52a3a325da15430.jpg

Thoughts then turned to position of the buttons around the screen, I made a couple of templates until I found one that I was happy with. the final screen surround layout was 10 round buttons either side and then a number of square buttons under the screen:

160650302_screenmountwithbuttons.thumb.jpg.2914f0f6d3ef831b769ec74c8fe6e7a1.jpg

I was planning to mount the monitor by placing blocks around three sides of the screen (bottom and two sides and then create a holding piece, however when I posted a similar thread over at Fruit-emu, I got some great advice from Reg, which was to think how you will access x or Y once the cabinet is complete. This mean that I decide to go with smaller blocks and put a panel across the back of the monitor and use the VESA mounting points:

800093019_monitormounted.thumb.jpg.af879a9517ac41984168db5ef726ba97.jpg

The monitor I used was an HP z24i which I got from ebay, it had some slight scratches on the screen and was thus cheap, however they mostly polished out and a tip I found online described how to nullify the effects with of all things Vaseline which when applied sparingly is almost optically clear.

When fitted in the cabinet the screen looks like:

1505461981_monitormountedandbuttonsinplace.thumb.jpg.1577bfe4e8a96be405355a6fcac9537a.jpg

And from the back the mount looks like:

90113_monitormountedincabinet.thumb.jpg.2ab854fe1eccd834e9a9a84d0785a537.jpg

 

Hope I haven't bored everyone to death so far and I will sort the rest of the photos and add to this later.

 

Pete

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Next step was to look at creating the main button panel for below the monitor, I decided to add the following buttons on this panel

Cancel, Hold, Hold/Hi, Hold/Lo, Hold (for Club machines), Collect, Exchange, Special (Let's play Barcrest etc) and Start

1464030730_frontbuttonplate.thumb.jpg.77e9cedc7eadec16822de9e7dc854e21.jpg

And when this was fitted to the rest of the machine the frame and buttons looked like:

2061683536_frontbuttonplatewithscreennobuttons.thumb.jpg.5be7d55c8b9915273771aaa873be9884.jpg

 

Once this was in place then came the time to fit the buttons and when all fitted the machine looked like:

1070920235_frontbuttonplatewithscreenbuttons.thumb.jpg.6c6c325ca928953e7c76b617e39bf75f.jpg

 

With all the buttons in place I decided that now was a good time to look at fitting the coin mech and thinking about getting coins in.

I offered up the coin mech holder and using a screw clamp to hold it, I then fitted the coin chute and coin mech and made sure that the position was about right for where the coin entry bezel was going to be.

Coinmech.thumb.jpg.bff4ca512b3cb755983f984dfb514d21.jpg

From the back the coin mech in place looks like:

721683803_monitorandcoinmechinplace.thumb.jpg.82bdf50ee55e1e6febc5d513171e827e.jpg

Fortunately as you will see from the image below, the coin output just cleared the side of the monitor (an item I had overlooked in my haste to get the mech fitted)

94081666_coinmechexitcloseup.thumb.jpg.439eef79d5295ea2065024f2bda37de0.jpg

I then set about making a test piece so that i could fit the coin bezel which I had bought to make the front of the cabinet look right:

194408034_coinentry.thumb.jpg.506e802fea2c392f7122b36a456c0d0f.jpg

Once that I had this, I was able to use it to create the holes in the monitor panel and mount the coin bezel on the machine.

1914941308_coinentryfromfront.thumb.jpg.1229a4e26144ee1e45e28e72d635389c.jpg

It was all seeming to go well, so then fitted the coin mech into the coin mech holder which I'd fitted back into the machine, when I fitted this back into the machine and tried to feed a coin in, the bezel and the coin mech didn't line up, as you can see from the eject button (which is not pressing the eject lever on the coin chute) the entire thing is about 20mm too far to the left.

1939600361_Coinmechoffcentre.thumb.jpg.af69f051d83ea980af0a371e493e3748.jpg

I was slightly stumped time to go and get a cup of coffee and work out what the heck I had done wrong. I removed the monitor panel and re-fitted the test piece, which lined up perfectly, this was when I realised that I had clamped the test piece onto the outside of the cabinet and lined up the outside edges. thus meaning that the Coin Bezel was too far to the left looking from the front of the cabinet by the thickness of the outer shell (18mm).

So after a little bit of contemplating and measuring I realised that a piece of the outer cabinet MDF fitted behind the coin mech holder would bring everything back in line, however this meant that the bottom of the coin mech sorter hit the monitor panel, so I needed to remove a piece from the side of the back of the monitor holder, shown below by the red rectangle in the image below:

301313967_sectiontocutaway.thumb.jpg.272ec87cf9ed413af5d6581f68c2e75c.jpg

So I cut a piece of MDF and mounted it behind the coin mech holder, thus moving the coin mech the required 18mm and allowing everything to line up.

302282066_coinmechholder.thumb.jpg.7e68fe8ad4900ac0fc7a1365d16bc8c5.jpg

with this piece of MDF in place and the coin mech mounted everything lined up as can be seen below:

1627260084_coinmechcorrectposition.thumb.jpg.6ded4ce3588e14d1c5e214009fb788b4.jpg

And the piece that I had cut out of the back of the monitor holder was large enough to allow the coin sorter to clear then monitor.

2072693954_Thatfitsbetter.thumb.png.878731be8335dc1b9fd55bbe23237fb9.png

Hope the post isn't to boring for folks. Next time we will take a look at the buttons and wiring of the machine

Pete

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@davep180 You are welcome, I am actually really enjoying documenting again the steps I took. This process and the release of a couple of absolute belter layouts recently has lit a fire under me again to get the PC upgraded, so this thread might be followed with a PC replacement (motherboard and drives mounted direct into cabinet)

@No1Stoney I seem to recall nabbing some ideas from your comments and posts on Uptown47's build over on FE

 

One thing that I meant to mention above was the fact that I had a bit of an issue with mounting the buttons on the 12mm and 18mm MDF which made the monitor surround and front panel respectively. What I didn't know when I ordered my first batch of buttons is that the 'nuts which hold the button to the panel from behind, come in two depth's, 20mm and 10mm. the first set all had 20mm nuts and although I could get them to fit backwards this then meant that the lamp holder and micro-switch assembly will not push in as they fouled on the nut. I hope the photos below show what I am trying to explain:

A comparison of the two nuts side by side:

228933620_Largeandsmallnut.thumb.jpg.f7c3939d22dbc36fc153e9475b3d0777.jpg

Large nut is only threaded at the top as you can see and on any material over about 9mm thick the thread cannot engage:

1980921942_Largenutnotfitting.thumb.jpg.b89624fb458308a0ee5132d008316c82.jpg

Putting the nut on 'upside down' gets around this.....

1552967515_Largenutsupsidedown.thumb.jpg.8f042974e51b96c694271d2fd6ce8a57.jpg

Until you come to put a micro-switch assembly in place when you find that the tab cannot engage in its bayonet hole (really annoying when you have fitted 20+ buttons.

993060605_tabnotlocated.thumb.jpg.5c70e2d8261e480da05ebedc1f7fe376.jpg:

A bit of googling revealed the smaller nuts amd washers and some more ebay purchases later I had enough nuts for all my buttons. As you can see the smaller nut allows the micro-switch to click home properly:

 

192656965_tablocatedsmallnut.thumb.jpg.6095a6281c3b9f52ec72f2c3e9d7ed18.jpg

 

Right with that little drama sorted the time came to move onto the buttons. 

Which when fitted with their inserts in the buttons looked like:

1105870090_screenbuttonscoinentry.thumb.jpg.48b91ff7ece20ced91998a66f843db6d.jpg

645825678_bottombuttons.thumb.jpg.a2df92bedced419ec0bb75ff6cb5c495.jpg

It was now time to move onto the cabling. I decided that I was going to create a board for the I-PAC and PAC Drives to mount on. This was an idea a inspired by the fantastic job done by Uptown47 (who if memory serves build electrical panels for a living)

So I spent a couple of evenings building the following:

1751429715_ipacandpacdrivesboard.thumb.jpg.1dc70d69f8842b797cc7996d3e1ddcba.jpg

I also decided that if I was going to know what on earth was going on in the panel I needed to label things up PAC Drive 1 is numbered 1-xx and PAC Drive 2 is numbered 2-xx

885477039_pacdrive1.thumb.jpg.d61d88c58d2d25c812ed04052036e115.jpg

542493866_PACDrive2.thumb.jpg.b700b56ef6841f6808ce8408ba17675f.jpg

The I-PAC is labelled following the names from the IPAC:

IPAC.thumb.jpg.36947b7d0ae4f330731411eed69bbb3f.jpg 

I then decided to get some paint on the cabinet, which really started to make it come together, as you will see I decided to Vinyl Wrap the bottom button panel

861997870_paintedblackfront.thumb.jpg.f8dca27ed2cbc7c11abe41ea7269447e.jpg

554979078_piantedblackside.thumb.jpg.2c5b45aad81c8c21bb70aa1fd5130d6a.jpg

Moving onto the wiring, I decided when I did the panel that I would use the following colours for most of the wiring:

White for data feed to PAC Drive or I-PAC

Black for Ground

Red for 12v

 

With the Ground links linked up for the buttons we had:

348685198_monitorandbuttonsback.thumb.jpg.79855bc3765c893a6cf7080d1820a84f.jpg

I then wired all the data links and fed them back down to the I-PAC:

411939092_Buttonsandground.thumb.jpg.b939e80fe0ac0f55a728d91e683cfa6c.jpg

717495527_Buttonsandground(2).thumb.jpg.159c0cdabfb49e99a7c8fc75437860e1.jpg

As you can see O was getting really confused and decided that I needed to label the buttons, as without I was getting buttons wired up all over the shop. eventually I used my multimeter to beep out the wires and then wire them back to the board which gave me:

754709340_buttonlogicandgroundbacktoIPAC.thumb.jpg.1ee492afc9032b0011651b648693ecfd.jpg

685227043_buttonlogicandgroundbacktoIPAC(2).thumb.jpg.8ec10613785b22bd934e2c3599a01c4d.jpg

 

Hope that I have not put too much detail into this post.

Next time I will detail the continuation of the wiring.

 

If anybody wants to know anything else then please let me know.

 

Pete

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Just before I move onto the next section of the wiring, I have realised that I forgot to mention the button inserts.

I could not find a matching set from any machine which I liked enough, and also numbered 1-10 and some other keys (Escape, Enter, Up and Down) for the buttons around the screen. So armed with some instructions which I found of Dad's FME site I set about seeing if I could make some. The result was the yellow buttons seen in the images above.

Buttons.thumb.jpg.6485389606008a0771379aba3276d923.jpg

Next we move onto wiring up the lamps so that the buttons will light up.

This embarrassing mish-mash of wires, has the 12v (Red), a ground feed (Black) and also data connections for both the hoppers (Black but should be white) and the Coin mech (Blue).

20200815_121645.thumb.jpg.b8ef2242c2d7f75fea84ae5da88b5c12.jpg

The 12v and the ground are fed from and adapted PC power supply. In a standard non modular PC power supply the wires are all colour coded and Yellow is usually +12v Black is usually Ground. Although recently with the advent of PC modding and Modular power supplies I have seen them where every wire is black (not ideal if you want to get a 12v feed!!!)The PC i was using had an old 3.5" floppy disk connector so this was adapted and extension wires were spliced on:

20200818_222946.thumb.jpg.c1faaa52dcddb037495b3ea307448c20.jpg

Which left the other wires safely held in the existing connector:

20200818_124636.thumb.jpg.6abd37b435ed9d476507607044931bbc.jpg

These extension wires were then passed out through the back of the case and attached to a plug and socket connector (just in case the PC ever needs to be removed) 

1105154675_20200818_124200(2).thumb.jpg.78a49ec36d1443f3b9f9ad4ffd0b1bab.jpg

Once the power was established a daisy chain was connected to each bulb holder, and whilst doing this a wire was fed back to the PAC Drive for each bulb so that MFME can call them when they are needed:

579085934_Powerwiredup(2).thumb.jpg.7382456c4534b19eabb86ed2aa03c743.jpg

At the same time as doing this I wired up the coin mech and ran a line for £1 and 50p back to the I-PAC so that credits can be put into the machine. I really must get round to adding support for 20p and 10p coins. 

If anyone is interested in how the coin mech is wired up let me know and I'll get some photos.

Once all these connections were in place they were run back down to the PAC Drives:

958151008_20200818_124458(2).thumb.jpg.2fcfd2daa6f91d257ddc1c099635f018.jpg

So each button/lamp now has 4 wires, which are connected as shown

883702784_Buttonwiring.thumb.jpg.b39dc1c54540773d86689da310799da6.jpg

 

The next step was to fit the hoppers into the cabinet and configure MFME to allow a game to be played using the new buttons, which I shall cover next time.

Hope I haven't bored everyone to death.

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Just re-reading my previous post I realised that I described butchering a cable from the power supply. It occurred to me that people might not want to cut the connectors off their PC, so I have come up with an alternative method, which means that if needed the PC could be returned to 'normal' use.

 

The easiest method is to use a hard disk power connector, the one I had was designed to allow connecting a SATA hard disk to an older PC:

20200819_160544.thumb.jpg.bef84390bd33c8a73d5350bfaf5f14df.jpg

 

The pins at the white connector are held in place by two tabs one on either side which essentially prevent the pin from pulling back out of the socket, these can usually be flattened against the pin using a fine bladed screwdriver. In the image below I have pulled them out to exaggerate the retaining tabs, we will want to remove the red pin and the black one next to it as we will want to be left with a Black (Ground) and Yellow (12V)

20200819_160829.thumb.jpg.4a84e4defd033bc41c251480fa8bc69a.jpg

Below you can see the pins in the socket:

 

1023063711_RetainingPins.thumb.jpg.9bf0119a5e2ba87bb8f4023f8dfb5c59.jpg

Once the pins have been removed the you can safely cut away the opposite ends of the cables and strip the cable back for 6-8mm leaving you with:

20200819_160656.thumb.jpg.472087428b6f575c7d961f063a9a851a.jpg

It is then possible to attach a couple of connector block pieces and these can then be connected to the 12v and Ground inputs respectively:

20200819_164603.thumb.jpg.db66e609b51702c048bf02c2fe179dea.jpg

I'll carry on with the build thread next time.

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@davep180 they are called Cord end terminals or Bootlace ferrules, I pick them up off eBay, it is also useful to have the proper tool to crimp them on, see below for a couple of links no affiliation to these listing, they were just the first two which came up:

Boot Lace Ferrules - eBay

Boot Lace Ferrule Crimp Tool - eBay

I had intended to fit the hoppers and everything, but the temptation got the better of me at this point and I fired up my first layout in the cabinet and configured it for the buttons and coin inputs:

20190113_114130.thumb.jpg.488c4a9ffc2d8134f43108f107751a6d.jpg

To be actually playing on the cabinet was fantastic, but when I won and the machine couldn't payout, I knew I had to sort the hoppers

The hoppers which I initially purchased were a couple of Parallel Serial Compact hoppers, which I did manage to get to connect, however they have a strange behaviour where they count a coin output as soon as they startup, this was causing some very random payouts. I then ordered some Azkoyen hoppers which I found on eBay, unfortunately these turned out to be cctalk encrypted (that will teach me to read adverts more carefully)

Fortunately upon reading the manual it turns out that the hoppers are all the same physical dimensions whatever interface they are using, so the bases which came with the incorrect hoppers could be used. these were mounted on a hastily installed shelf as seen below:

2011380306_20200818_124920(2).thumb.jpg.88461cacb79ac5c6a4013028917fe290.jpg

The hoppers push into place and are held by the red clip which is pushed toward the front of the machine to release them, as you can see they are offset to allow one hopper to payout through the other hopper (the hoppers have a channel at the back the coins from the rear hopper passes through)

2128371585_hopperslots.thumb.jpg.6704ac2b3ed7e8b1fd06a8793fae5c59.jpg

When the two hoppers are installed and viewed from above they look like:

1400124270_20200820_174818(2).thumb.jpg.a97f9da8163116e9e44ae0fdb119fe99.jpg

So now we had two hoppers in place and needing to payout. They were placed a little higher than I had expected due to the size of the PC I was using, so needed a 'chute' to get the coins into the payout tray which I salvaged from a scrap fruit machine:

410072153_20200820_180245(2).thumb.jpg.5601e8a2b6243c92e69f2c24e76b8132.jpg

I had already decided that I was going to use 40mm waste pipe and push fittings for coin routing to the hoppers and reject etc, so a piece of this was cut and a fixture made which allowed coins to enter and be fed into the payout tray:

1288846269_20200820_180209(2).thumb.jpg.8268c40d552fb4d8092061e5e9f03a82.jpg

and from behind showing the opening:

621160921_20200818_124925(2).thumb.jpg.6add95d999b39c0064218a5327bdaca7.jpg

Next task was to route the coins into their various hoppers and cash box etc:

1£ coins are to go into the back hopper

10p to go into the front hopper 

20p, 50 and £2 coins to go into the cash box and everything else is to be returned to the payout tray as a reject.

This was dealt with by using 40mm waste pipe and a fixture mounted under the coin mech:

20190202_175550.thumb.jpg.9c5b9da92c7ebeb92177bea5e0118ef1.jpg

The fixture has the following holes and pipes in:

1904869619_coinroutingcloseup.thumb.jpg.3656a5c69ca3ebba8272580e6e7e86af.jpg

and the routing of the pipes looks like, as you can see the pound coins actually fall into the mouth of the tube and this took some positioning to get right:

20190202_175550.thumb.jpg.9c5b9da92c7ebeb92177bea5e0118ef1.jpg

Which left me with a machine that looked like:

20190202_175924.thumb.jpg.88e28f1d81f00b7c96140eb9d990e6a6.jpg

The last task for this machine make a hole in the bottom door and fit the rescued payout tray.

A lot of measuring a cutting with the jigsaw reulted in the following:

20190205_200832.thumb.jpg.05ff531ccac59ee98bf92cbe333e9d05.jpg

And when this was fitted onto the front of the machine, it almost looks like a fruit machine:

20190209_212643.thumb.jpg.9740da2ca2d232ae750c772e39069be4.jpg

And that is how it has stayed for quite a while, however it is still fantastic fun to play the layouts on.

20200820_190855.thumb.jpg.4f708627195921f70260708a0a9b5e79.jpg

There are a few things which irritate me about the machine, not least the gap between the screen and button panels and the fact that I have never got around to creating a bottom door, so I plan to address these and upgrade to Windows 10 and MFME 20 

But the PC is not really up to running Windows 10, so I am planning to remove the PC and do it how I wanted in the first place, which is a motherboard and power supply mounted in the base of the machine and running off a SATA SSD.

If people are still interested in seeing this I will start a new thread, as some folks may not be comfortable with running a PC outside a case. but if some basic precautions are taken the it can be done reasonably safely.

 

Thanks for all the comments, hope this thread helps someone.

 

Pete

20200818_123346 (2).jpg

20190202_175603.jpg

20200817_195759 (2).jpg

20200817_195734.jpg

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Looks awesome Pete I have built a bar top cabinet with no coin meck  or hoppers haven’t got the room for them. May build a second cabinet in the future and you have given me some tips and ideas thanks, looking forward for the pc upgrade as I would like to upgrade mine i am currently just using an old laptop but it does get rather hot, as I am not very good with pc stuff it will be helpful to see what you come up with. Again awesome  skills with the woodwork etc do you do that sort of stuff as job ?

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Hi Ginge,

No, I have no experience of working with wood, I am an IT solutions tech (I design and install solutions related to printing) I will try and start to document the process of retro fitting the board and things.

I was looking through an old hard drive the other day and actually found the designs for the cabinet, so could share the drawings with the dimensions on if anybody wants them. I have a set of 1:10 drawings, which fit on an A4 sheet.

I am going to see if I can come up with a design for a bartop cabinet which takes hopper and coin mech. Based on the full size machine, I think i can see a couple of places where I could make/save space, and I think I could get everything into a unit less that 1000mm tall using a 24" monitor in portrait mode.

Pete

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As mentioned in a post above, there are a few things that have been annoying me about the machine. I managed to get some time in the workshop so decided that I would try and address these.

The first issue that I was not happy about was the state of the wiring for the coin mech and the hoppers, so i decided to see if there was anything that I could do to make it a little tidier and also replace the wires which did not follow my colour code:

1640900779_20200823_150100(2).thumb.jpg.ff384972bf92facb4a68199a7bf1da67.jpg

Much happier with how that looks now, it may only seem like a small thing, but knowing it wasn't as good as I could do was annoying me.

I was also having some issues with the payout, as the coin exit chute was more than a little wobbly, so a strengthening piece was created and attached to the 18mm shelf more firmly:

20200823_145916.thumb.jpg.56cf8efacdcf7e9ca63483ec01b0ba5e.jpg

It is now rock solid, and when removing the front panel the chute does not move up and down.

I also set about covering the gap between the monitor panel and the button panel and also creating am upper front cover for over the payout area, a piece of scrap T moulding from a salvaged cabinet was inserted into the gap, which covered it nicely:

1492346439_20200823_153328(2).thumb.jpg.2c41a91dff3c5228a701e83e4fb2f763.jpg

and then a top lower cover was fitted onto magnetic catches so it can be removed easily:

1698927912_20200823_154325(3).thumb.jpg.0931115aab6d67b2c9d77b289b0b877c.jpg

personally I feel that this really, finally makes the machine look complete:

1947873650_20200823_154325(2).thumb.jpg.82c42e826481246aa49d1ba61ca3afd7.jpg

I then moved onto removing the PC and mounting the components in the bottom of the cabinet. But that will be another thread.

 

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Just a quick update:

I was about to start getting things ready to replace the PC in it's case with the motherboard that I had decided to use and had some kind of a surge which fed the IPAC with we suspect 12v (possibly greater)  direct to one of the inputs, as you can imagine the board was not best pleased about this.


A few emails between Andy @ Ultimarc and I determined that the board was beyond economical repair. and he has advised me that it is good practice to run a 5.1v zener diode between the earth line and any input which is not a pure switch, meaning that the input is protected from any 12v surges coming from either the Coin Mech or hopper. I am not sure what happened, it may have even been the usb which caused the surge, but I thought I'd post the advice from Andy seeing as he is the chap who designs and makes the boards. 

The advice was :

A 5.1 zener diode can be connected from the input to GND to guard against over voltage. The end of the diode marked with a band, to the input.

I am gutted but have ordered a new board. and will proceed with the update to the machine once I get the new board setup.

Zener Diode.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi WW,

I was just wondering how you were getting on? I understand if you haven't done anything recently, especially with the recent events.

I am interested to see your new pc setup and how and where exactly, the diodes are implemented.

Your guide has been brilliant. I am slowly collecting the bits i will need for such a project for myself! Getting a bit at a time each month at payday!

Once it's all together, I'll probably be bending your ear for more info!

Cheers,

Dave

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