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Reg's Second MFME Cabinet


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  • 1 year later...
On 27/10/2019 at 10:07, Reg said:

CONVERSION - PART #1

01. Using a spare PC I found, I installed Windows 10 and setup to login automatically ( basically no password for the default user ).

02. The monitor for this turned out to be a 3M Touchscreen.  The drivers were MT7.14.9.Win32-64.zip and these were downloaded from here...

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/touch-systems-us/resources/3m-touch-drivers-and-kernel-patches/

03. The drivers were installed and the option to use HTD Mouse was picked.

04. Direct X9 Run Time was installed.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/download/details.aspx?id=8109

05. MFME was installed.

06. For a test, the DX from @Tommy c was used.  This was edited before moving to the cabinet to drag the borders of the layout as close to the playfield as possible.

07. MFME was set to lauch the game in full screen, I think I picked full screen max.

08. Below is a video so far - this is very rough and ready - just testing the touchscreen actually worked.  Ignore the flashing buttons they're still hooked up to the original PC.

Off out now - but stage one - proof of concept that this actually is going to work - done. :Yes:

Beautiful 

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On 03/12/2019 at 20:53, Reg said:

Well did not do as much as planned and also suffering from a knackered back - so I hope the wonders of an iPad, cloud sharing of pictures works.

The goal here was to wire up the buttons.  This thread is a little picture heavy but a good point of reference.

The last two pictures of the previous post show the loom that presents itself into a connector.  That connector can plug directly into the front of the PC case also shown above.  The goal here is to reuse as many parts as possible - if it’s not broken don’t fix it.

Using a multimeter the wires were buzzed out to check that we knew what everything was. The picture below is what was connected to the buttons.

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The picture below is the wires that were connected into the PayLink device from the above post.  These are the critical cables and a loom that already exists.

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The PC was stripped of everything not needed.  This is really going to be a frame / shell of all the parts needed for the rest of the cabinet. It had an amp, it had a PSU, it had connections for the loom and it had a 24v PSU.

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The cables from the loom plugged directly into the front of the PC via the connectors shown. below.  This then linked to the PayLink device that was removed.

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The one problem you have when using an ATX power supply from the PC is that with no PC, it is always turned off.  You need to fix this.

The way this is done is you connect two wires as shown.  I was fortunate that the PC had an extension block of wires from the PC PSU to the system board, so this is what was cut and linked ( the two wires ).  This should ensure the PC PSU turns on when it gets a power source.

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The next challenge was to convert a molex connector to power the button bulbs, all of them.  The plan is to have them all on.

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Note that it is the yellow and black wires needed.

With the adapter for the PSU mod plugged in and the single LED bulb, time to test.

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The bulb worked.

Next it was update the buttons, I wanted the legends removed and silver looking buttons to match the frame.

The inserts were removed of the buttons and replaced with silver / grey tissue type wrapping paper.

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The final part is to power on the LEDs at boot.

Remember this picture...

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The top connector has all the LEDs and the ground.

Basically two connections are needed.  One ground ( as its common to all buttons and linked ) and then the live to each button.  As I am going to have them all on at once, this is now easy.

A common connector made as below.

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The ground wire goes to the black cable and all the live cables for the LEDs go into the red cable.

The final view of the PC looks like this.

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The connector show above with the the single ground wire from the buzzed out cables goes into the black wire as above on the custom connector and the button live cable ( 7 into 1 ) go into the other connector is taped to the base of the case.

Finally - when power is presented - the buttons should all come on.  This uses existing looms and effectively makes the old wiring recycled.

Powering on...

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Eureka...

Next stage if my back is ok is to get the PC setup with a menu and couple of games to test.

Aftert that, keyboard controller setup...

...then the coin hopper etc.

We are getting here - hope this picture journey is of help and or interest.

Dear God - how time flies.

In December 2019, I last looked at this.

I am picking it up again this weekend to try to get some progress.

Last challenge was the coin mech - I am using the SR5i that it came with, does anyone have any diagrams or info on how to wire this up.

It had power last - but simply did nothing for the coin diverts - coins just fell through.

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19th September 2021 - Progress Update

The coin mech is now working which is ideal - again thank you to @fruitsnappa for that manual.

Lot's of work getting it installed and a few images to share of this weekends fun and games.

Inside of Cabinet

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The red PC unit at the bottom is really an empty shell of what I kept from the original machine I broguht, it's mess.  Inside that shell is master volume control, cable presentation for the lights on the buttons and iPac.  The original loom was used for buttons and buttons LED's making lief a lot easier.  The blue cable is the audio and LCD chain that feeds up to the PC.  The purple wire is the six inputs and additional ground that go from the hopper at the top of the machine to the iPac.

Apart from the bottom area - there is a false wall on the top half of the machine and most the cables are fed through there.

Main Cabinet

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Top picture shows the button configuration display.  The physical buttons on the machine don't flash they are always on.  They are used for controlling MFME.  The only button that can be used in MFME gameplay is the right one as it doubles for start.  Did that for two reasons, it feels more natural and secondly when using the touchscreen you can press the cancel button and use the physical start button for slowdowns etc.  The start button in the cabinet also works.

The main screen shows the loading screen of the cabinet - not much to share beyond that.  That is also the screen saver that fades to different coloured versions of that.  It ties into the Bank Raid / Cops and Robbers style bezel.

There is also a close up of the buttons.  The buttons had the inserts removed and replaced with silver wrapping paper.

The final picture showing the test build with three layouts using mGalaxy.

Final View

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This is the machine in it's final view.

Next Steps

From the orignal MFME cabinet I am swapping the PC with the one in here - it has nearly 100 games I've already configured and setup.  The only change really is to install the touch screen driver for it beyond any other work.

The original PC seems to be more powerful as well and it makes sense to at least put it in and compare performance.

The hopper does not work - the hopper is unlikely to work as I have no idea how to get that running.  That being said, coins are not dropping into the hopper from the coin mech.  For some reason the £1 is falling straight through into the cash box ( as well as everything else that should be ) and not diverting to the dead mech. 

I have been thinking about this - the hopper working is a pain in the arse in some sense - this is a way to play MFME layouts in a cabinet and I much more enjoy putting the money in for credits ( although I do have a shortcut button to do that ) then having it pay and loads and then I've got to put money in and at times well over £100.

This is a live money box - with the divert not going to the dead hopper - I am beginning to think I could just leave it.

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@Reg if possible I would ditch that hopper and use an azkoyen U hopper. If the cab can be adapted to make it fit that is. Wiring for those is so straight forward and perfect to be used in conjunction with MFME. I think this cab deserves the full cash experience if possible.

As for the coins falling through, that would require a simple routing plug creating depending on which exits from the coin mech you want all your coins to go. (Check the manual for help on that)

Good luck with the 2nd project, you know full well you will want it 100% 😉

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1 hour ago, No1Stoney said:

@Reg if possible I would ditch that hopper and use an azkoyen U hopper. If the cab can be adapted to make it fit that is. Wiring for those is so straight forward and perfect to be used in conjunction with MFME. I think this cab deserves the full cash experience if possible.

As for the coins falling through, that would require a simple routing plug creating depending on which exits from the coin mech you want all your coins to go. (Check the manual for help on that)

Good luck with the 2nd project, you know full well you will want it 100% 😉

Oh you bastard !!!  You've fixed one problem with the routing that I will be able to do and tempted me with the hopper.

Is this the hopper ?

HOPPER U Parallel 24v (41108171) – Azkoyen – Hopper | eBay

If so, could you provide a wiring diagram please and any links to any associated parts I need to get - looking at the size, that would fit !

1 hour ago, No1Stoney said:

you know full well you will want it 100% 😉

That last line really put me over the edge thinking, he's right you know, I was just trying to justify failure !

 

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I've posted a crude but usable image somewhere else recently on here. Ill see if I can find the thread..

Yes that ebay listing is the one you need but that is very expensive for one of those. I only paid about 15-20 for mine used.. also those 24v ones run fine on 12v albeit might run slightly slower with a full hopper.

Edit: diagram here. Again it was only designed for my own use so I'm sorry its a mess.

 

Edited by No1Stoney
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8 hours ago, No1Stoney said:

Cant wait to hear how you get on. Good thing about these hoppers is they take any type of coin too. Good luck! 

Thank you.  So a stupid question…

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…the three 12v lines, are they independent or can you create three connections from one single source - so a single feed for the 12v splits three ways for the hopper connections.  Thank you.

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Nice Progress Tonight:

Loom made and plumbed in with all connecitons made to iPac and PSU etc.  Can't finish up as the wireless keyboard broke as I wheeled a chair over it, lol.  Anyway new one ordered for tomorrow but technically just eight cables to push into the pins and test !

Bloody amazon had better turn up tomorrrow !

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On 22/09/2021 at 20:25, No1Stoney said:

Looking forward to hearing how you get on tomorrow. Now to get the 2nd hopper 😉 You need one for all the 10ps or 20ps now 😆

It is sending me insane - I can't see the problem - the hopper seems to be working in micro steps - none of the of the old configuration I had that I moved to input #1 works on the new hopper setup.

I am doing something really stupid here.  I've stopped now before I get too annoyed and will revisit tomorrow.

The hopper does pay out so you can here it eventually drop a coin.

Video Link

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@Reg

Did you connect the hopper to either output 15 or 16 on the pacdrive? If you did, you need to change the output in MFME to match. I can't get to my cab at the min to compare but I will do asap and report back

 

 

Ooooooh... Also check the 'mode' on your hopper. I seem to recall Mode 0 is what you need

 

 

pac.jpg

Edited by No1Stoney
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OK so I've just taken a look at my cab.. mode 1 is what the hopper needs to be set at, so remove the jumper on the bottom if it is present. 

I also went into pacdrive settings with config all set up. If I hold down test all the hopper spins continually until I release the button. If I press test hoppers they both spin up and time out after about 30 sec or so. If I then press test hoppers again, nothing happens until I restart mfme. 

Edited by No1Stoney
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Thanks for the reply.

I did change the outputs to match what input it was showing from the PAC-Drive.  I was not using 15 / 16 so I matched up the single one that I had.

Hopper is in Mode 1.  The jumper is present - but - it only sits on a single pin with the other not connected to anything.

Wondering if I have a power problem to it.  Will revisit tomorrow evening - I am too annoyed at it ATM lol !

Hoppers always wind me up - they did on the first cabinet as well - this one makes me no happier ! :)

Thanks again - looks like I am setup as I should be - so I will start with the power - as you heard by that video it does not seem right.  I am thinking that the bridging connectors I made may not be suitable so look at splitting the loom wire three ways.

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12 minutes ago, Reg said:

Purely out of interest - how did you wire up the connector, did you build a connector or manually connect each wire to each pin ?

I bought a kit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124149282612?hash=item1ce7dfb734:g:IZcAAOSwZdtejf2G

and made my own 5x5 block using dupont wires. The 3 VCC wires go into a terminal block and merge into a single wire which then goes to one of my PC's 12v sources. Same with GND, except spliced into one of the black PC wires.

From the video you uploaded, it looks like you are only clicking (rather than holding mouse button down) on the test all button. My hopper acts in the same way if I don't hold the button down.

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@No1Stoney thank you mate for all your help.

I got there in the end...

...your diagram was perfect and to the mark - the problem was this hopper.  Turns out that it really did want 24v in the case of this one.

I have just finished jury-rigging a 24V PSU that I took from the broken first cabinet that will be scrapped and it worked.  The only additonal change I had to do was add a link from the ground terminal of the iPac to the new PSU and all worked fine like a dream.

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This is the mess I have created when I really should be sleeping - but it works.

Next steps are to:

1. Install New PSU in machine.

2. Tidy up cabling.

3. Sort routing on coin mech.

4. Place Hopper nicely.

5. Play and enjoy.

I will not be putting a second hopper in and it violates the machines T&C - look at this ! :)

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@No1Stoney this may not mean much - but honestly thank you so much and by not meaning much as you already have access being a designer - I have given you a contributor badge.  Looking at these cabinet threads you've helped so many - me included - so thank you again.

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