slotsmagic

He never did. It was created purely to spite this site and massage his own ego. Plus it gave him his own safe space where he could post whatever he wanted and not get banned, since he was banned from here and more recently the MPU Mecca. Other than needing to kiss the ring of the admin. I'm pretty sure you need to contact him via YouTube or similar and beg for an invite - I'm pretty sure that's about as big of a hoop you can get. What kind of hypocritical moron makes a site called 'Freedom' and then locks it from the public. Hence why I affectionately refer to it as 'Fort Fruits'.

I never saw it but it reminds me of the time someone claimed to have had a JP from either the bottom, or one of the bottom features, in the local club when I used to play in there. I think it was Hit the Dracpot and I'm sure it was a win spin or pick-a-win. Didn't witness it but local player told me after the fact and I wouldn't be surprised. I don't think it was one of us players, it was a casual I did wonder at the time if it was a GATW that they either didn't see, or if it was a board that would have gone all the way if pushed. Surprised I haven't tried in the emulator yet, might be one for me to mess about with later as it just needs a RAM that's jackpot happy and I can keep taking crap features and resetting if needed

Should be possible to emulate - however the issue is ROMs. If you don't have a copy of the ROMs (the game software and sound that run in the machine) then it can't be done. If they are available I'm sure someone would share them, but at the same time I'd expect there to already be a layout if we had ROMs

Absolutely, with regards to the OS itself, but unsure about the game EXEs? For example I have Storm games running on my PC - the menu won't load (no dongle, no PayLink, and a bunch of other reasons) - but the game EXEs do run and are playable, albeit in a demo mode.

The BPAKs are unpacked during installation to a game menu, so not sure the BPAKs themselves would be required? Not sure if they are only unpacked there - install to the \running rather than \master folder once installed. Plenty of us have images with a group of games (up to 40) already installed if anyone wanted a fiddle about. They aren't small though! No idea how well they would run though and what may or may not need to be done. I know that they skip a certain amount of checks / verification when running in demo mode, but whether they'd throw an error due to lack of MPU5/6 among others I don't know.

Donations need to be manually approved, not sure if anyone else can do it other than @pete_w - if they can then let us know as he probably gets bored of us tagging him

I've been a member here nearly 8 years?! Doesn't feel like that at all. Mind you I got a reminder from eBay recently that I've been a member for 21 years, and I immediately felt old. Honestly had to think about the maths for a minute as was convinced they'd made a mistake.

It's a tricky one. If you have an old / rare ROMset it's great to be able to dump the ROMs and have a known good backup you can recover from. At the same time, would you want to risk losing your software by making a copy if you aren't sure what you were doing? The risks aren't too bad, if you physically damage your original chip before / during dumping you'd probably be able to recover it to the point you can still dump it. If you damage the data on the chip though - you are out of luck. You'd be able to source an alternative ROM dump (probably) but would lose the rare original.

Good to know that the emulators still work, I assume using the 'prism' emulation? Quite amusing that the ARM based machines emulate x86 CPUs to run emulators I'm a way off being interested in an ARM laptop yet (when they are cheap and common place I'll be onboard!) but have just dug out my Ryzen 4500U based convertible (good for MFME as you can use it as a large tablet) and I'm still surprised at how good it is considering it's age. I remember my first laptop that I owned (rather than being a work / school one) - before the days of Pentium M or Centrino. It was an absolute brick, the battery life was about an hour, maybe 90 mins on a good day, and it could pretty much play Doom. Don't think it had any sort of hardware 3D acceleration. Now you can get laptops which are as powerful as desktops, probably less than 1cm thick, and battery life that lasts all day. I wouldn't be surprised if desktop PCs were redundant in 10 years, except for absolute enthusiasts.

I can't think of many games that run in two separate windows. MFME is capable of scaling a single layout window across multiple displays, but I can't imagine it would let you effectively split a game into multiple windows, and I've never tried running different resolutions across multiple windows. Even if that did work I would expect it would require each layout to be significantly modified to make it work. The only games that natively support separate windows would be multiplayer titles, and that's only as each 'window' is in fact a separate machine, so each window is performing a separate emulation of it's own machine, rather than trying to break a single machine into separate parts.

Absolutely, keeps all the buttons nicely lined up with only a hint of 'wiggle'. In most cases, those of us who make cabinets just use the plastic nut on the button thread to grip into the button panel. Found a few extra 7 segs so added them to the box. No idea if any of it is any use but if not feel free to either lob it or pass it on. They would have been working when removed though

As for the button notches... I used a junior hacksaw in the past!

Ooh, just remembered I still have another box of stuff to post out to @PharkieB, along with some T7 hoppers for someone else. I'll get them posted out tomorrow!

It is, the reason I was pondering a USB failure of the mainboard / headers was because the errors shown earlier seemed to alternate between missing cabinet key and the usual MPU comms error. Diagnosing over the internet, with just photos, is a pain in the arse Mind you before I smashed my last T7 up, I'd got it going several times with random stabs in the dark. Bloody things.

The ports at the bottom should work without a problem. However it's worth trying the ones at the top in case there is some issue with the ones at the bottom.

Ta for that. So your USB headers for the ports at the top of the PC do appear to be plugged into the headers at the right hand side of the case : I assume it's the USB ports on top of the PC that you are using? So you've got black extension leads plugged into there?

Right, I'm trying to help but it's very hard with limited information to go off. My suspicion is either (A) that your USB ports on your computer case are not plugged into your motherboard headers, or (B) that your motherboard BIOS has, for some reason, got USB ports turned off (doubtful!) I'm leaning towards (A). I no longer have a MK6 or MK7 motherboard as I've smashed all my digital machines for spare parts. However if you can get a photo of your motherboard, that would be a good start, also showing where you have your USB devices plugged in. When I say motherboard, you don't need to remove anything from the motherboard, just a photo of it installed in your PC case inside the machine. If you need to remove the cover of the PC I think it's only one or two small screws, either at the top and/or bottom of the case.

Have you definitely connected the internal USB headers? It's been a while but there's 2 or more connectors from the case of the PC back to the motherboard. Make sure they are connected correctly. I no longer have a PC to provide photos but I can see if I have any photos when I get back. If I recall correctly on a MK7 PC the USB plugs for the motherboard are yellow, if that's any help! Can't remember what colour they were on a Mk6 PC!

Ah, yes, that could well have been it. Apologies, I thought it was mentioned at the time about it possibly being an in-house emulation tool, which wouldn't have surprised me! If that's a simulation that an absolutely stunning job, let's be honest!

Not in MFME, no. The author of MFME (Wizard) sadly died a couple of years back, and so the last version will be v20.1. However there is nothing to say that Scorpion 6 won't ultimately end up in MAME or similar. I'm sure someone mentioned a while back that there was an emulator shown running on YouTube, which I believe was used by one of the last reel-based machine manufacturers, and I think it showed Scorpion 6 (but could have been Pluto 6?) running. Don't hold me to that, don't get your hopes up - if (like me) you can't code it yourself, you just have to hope someone else does it for you - and support them in any way you can.

Hi! I believe introduction posts are deleted once the member has received the required 'reputation' score to be an active member. It's a sort of filter system, to weed out spammers and leeches, and once it has served its purpose the post is removed. Bit harsh I know! You don't have to donate, although doing so gives you unlimited ability to download layouts, and access to the Legacy Area of the downloads, where you can download pretty much every layout made over the years. If you want to muck in and have a shot at layout creation at any point and seeing how things are put together, there's a few guides on the forum - you don't need any art software or anything to get started, but if you did want to get into the graphical side of it at any point you might need to get hold of something like Photoshop - I use that myself - or possibly GIMP as a free alternative. Not used GIMP for years but seem to recall it was decent for free!

Looks nice, assume it's using an Arduino or similar? I do have random 'tinkering' Raspberry Pis of various generations, and also a Flipper Zero, but really just as a curiosity, never actually done any programming with them. I just use them for ready made emulation, or in the case of the Flipper, as a backup for getting into work via the RFID panel on the door My only experience is with iPAC (alternative keyboard encoders are available) and PACdrive, using software already written like MFME that is designed to work with such hardware. Anything I learned I did by asking questions in this subforum, but also by looking at what others had done - it may take a bit of digging but there's plenty of stuff. As I continue clearing out the garage tomorrow (might be firing up the air conditioner and tucking the exhaust vent under one of the doors!) I may well come across more microswitches and things if needed, also (bit random) possibly things like 7seg displays from machines - not sure if you'd be interested in anything like that to tinker with? I guess it depends on whether they would be of use. Also not sure I provided some of the basic cables too (things like 3.5mm to dual RCA for the amplifier?), so happy to send them on at the same time, free of charge obviously. Anyway good to see you are enjoying what you are doing!

The same principle applies to the microswitches, albeit this time using the iPAC (which handles INputs) instead of the PACdrive (which handles OUTputs). With the microswitches for the buttons, you'll have a daisy-chained 'ground' for each microswitch - probably labelled COM or similar on the switch. That goes to the GND connector on the iPAC. Then for the button itself, normally the part of the microswitch labeled NO (Normally Open), you connect a wire from each NO terminal on the switch back to a separate input on the iPAC. Again, feel free to play about with the ready made up loom I provided as it's got lamps and microswitches already wired up, along with annotated cable notes, so should be able to give you clues (edit - corrected text as I'd originally referred to inputs twice in the first paragraph instead of inputs and outputs)

Sorry, image attached!! I assume they are, normal fruit machine lamps are 12V 1.2W from memory You can use them but you'd need an external power source, I prefer to just stick to LEDs I may have more kicking about but I just included the 3 spares from my last order

If you are using the 5V 10mm LEDs as I provided, then the PACdrive itself provides 5V and you don't need to worry about external power sources, relays or any of that stuff. If using the buttons you have above, I'd suggest getting some 5V LEDs unless you really want to run 12V and power them externally. Connect the lamp holder as per the picture below as provided by the manufacturer of the PACdrive - power is provided in a 'daisy chain' configuration to the positive terminal of each LED, and then a separate wire from each negative terminal back out the PACdrive, preferably in the order they are installed in the cabinet / MFME keyboard - whichever option you go with